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DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR 

JOHN BARTON PAYNE, Secretary 



NATIONAL PARK SERVICE 

STEPHEN T. MATHER, Director 



THE 

NATIONAL PARKS 
PORTFOLIO 



BY 

ROBERT STERLING YARD 







GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 

1921 



(9 2-1 




NOTE TO THIRD EDITION 

HE first edition of the National Parks Portfolio, which numbered 
275,000 copies, was issued by the Department of the Interior in 
June, 1916. The second edition, brought up to date by the substi- 
tution of later photographs and enlarged by the addition of thirty - 
six pages, was one of the first publications of the new National Park Service, 
which Congress created August 25, 1916. This, the third edition, contains 
twenty-two additional pages of pictures. It shows fifty pictures not included 
in former editions. 

Acknowledgments are due to the many photographers, professional and 
amateur, who contributed some of the best examples of their work to this 
Portfolio; to the United States Geological Survey for assistance and hearty 
cooperation; to many helpful individuals; and to seventeen Western railroads, 
whose contribution of forty-three thousand dollars made possible its first 
publication. 

Robert Sterling Yard 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

SEP231921 

DOCUMENTS DIVISION 



FOR SALE BY SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS 
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, WASHINGTON, D. C 
Book Bound in Cloth One Dollar 



(*) 



DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR 

JOHN BARTON PAYNE, Secretary 



NATIONAL PARK SERVICE 

STEPHEN T. MATHER, Director 



INTRODUCTION 



O BUILD a railroad, reclaim lands, give new impulse to enterprise, 

Tand offer new doors to ambitious capital — these are phases of 
the ever-widening life and activity of this Nation. The United 
States, however, does more; it furnishes playgrounds to the peo- 
ple which are, we may modestly state, without any rivals in the world. Just 
as the cities are seeing the wisdom and necessity of open spaces for the chil- 
dren, so with a very large view the Nation has been saving from its domain 
the rarest places of grandeur and beauty for the enjoyment of the world. 

And this fact has been discovered only recently by many. Europe being 
closed, thousands for the first time have crossed the continent and seen one or 
more of the national parks. That such mountains and glaciers, lakes and can- 
yons, forests and waterfalls were to be found in this country was a revelation to 
many who had heard but had not believed. It would appear from the ex- 
perience of the past year that the real awakening as to the value of these parks 
has at last been realized, and that those who have hitherto found themselves 
enticed by the beauty of the Alps and the Rhine and the soft loveliness of the 
valleys of France may find equal if not more stimulating satisfaction in the 
mountains, rivers, and valleys which this Government has set apart for them 
and for all others. 

There is no reason why this Nation should not make its public health and 
scenic domain as available to all its citizens as Switzerland and Italy make 
theirs. The aim is to open them thoroughly by road and trail and give access 
and accommodation to every degree of income. In this belief an effort is 
making now as never before to outfit the parks with new hotels and public 
camps which should make the visitor desire to linger rather than hasten on 
his journey. One large hotel has been projected in the Valley of the Yosemite; 
a fine new hotel stands on Glacier Point, while more modest lodges have 
been dotted about in the obscurer spots to make accessible the rarer beauties 
of the inner Yosemite. For, with the new Tioga Road, which, through the 
generosity of Mr. Stephen T. Mather and a few others, the Government has 
acquired, there is to be revealed a new Yosemite which only John Muir and 
others of similar bent have seen. This is a Yosemite far different from the 
quiet, incomparable valley. It is a land of forests, snow, and glaciers. From 

(3) 



Mount Lyell one looks, as from an island, upon a tumbled sea of snowy peaks. 
Its lakes, many of which have never been fished, are alive with trout. And 
through it foams the Tuolumne River, a water spectacle destined to world 
celebrity. 

A new hotel, accompanied by adequate camping facilities, has been built 
on a shoulder of Mount Rainier, in Paradise Valley; and roads are projected to 
open up the northern side of this wonderful ice mountain. New roads and 
trails are building in the Glacier National Park, and new hotels are projected to 
make accessible portions of this scenic wilderness of incomparable magnificence. 

While as the years have passed we have been modestly developing the 
superb scenic possibilities of the Yellowstone, nature has made of it the largest 
and most populous game preserve in the Western Hemisphere. Its great size, 
its altitude, its vast wildernesses, its plentiful waters, its favorable conforma- 
tion of rugged mountain and sheltered valley, and the nearly perfect protec- 
tion afforded by the policy and the scientific care of the Government have 
made this park, since its inauguration in 1872, the natural and inevitable cen- 
ter of game conservation for this Nation. There is something of significance 
in this. It is the destiny of the national parks, if wisely controlled, to 
become the public laboratories of nature study for the Nation. And from 
them specimens may be distributed to the city and State preserves, as is 
now being done with the elk of the Yellowstone, which are too abundant, and 
may be done later with the antelope. 

If Congress will but make the funds available for the construction of roads 
over which automobiles may travel with safety (for all the parks are now open 
to motors) and for trails to hunt out the hidden places of beauty and dignity, 
we may expect that year by year these parks will become a more precious 
possession of the people, holding them to the further discovery of America 
and making them stiil prouder of its resources, esthetic as well as material. 

John Barton Payne, 

Secretary of the Interior. 



(4) 



T 



PRESENTATION 

HIS Nation is richer in natural scenery of the first order than any- 
other nation; but it does not know it. It possesses an empire 
of grandeur and beauty which it scarcely has heard of. It owns 
the most inspiring playgrounds and the best equipped nature 
schools in the world and is serenely ignorant of the fact. In its national 
parks it has neglected, because it has quite overlooked, an economic asset of 
incalculable value. 

The Nation must awake, and it now becomes our happy duty to waken it 
to so pleasing and profitable a reality. This portfolio is the morning call to 
the day of realization. 

Individual features of several of our national parks are known the world 
over; but few to whom the Yosemite Valley is a household word know that 
its seven wonderful miles are a part of a scenic wonderland of eleven hundred 
square miles called the Yosemite National Park. So with the Yellowstone; 
all have heard of its geysers, but few indeed of its thirty-three hundred square 
miles of wilderness beauty. Some of the finest of our national parks here 
pictured you probably have never even heard of. The Sequoia National 
Park, a hundred miles south of the Yosemite, one of the noblest scenic areas 
in the world, is the home of more than a million sequoias, the celebrated Big 
Trees of California; but even its name is known to few. The Crater Take 
National Park encloses the deepest and bluest lake in the world surrounded 
by walls of pearly fretted lavas of indescribable beauty — a very wonder spot; 
but it is probably least known of all. 

The main object of this portfolio, therefore, is to present to the people of 
this country a panorama of our national parks and national monuments set 
side by side for their study and comparison. Each park will be found highly 
individual. The whole will be a revelation. 

This is the first really representative presentation of American scenerv 
of grandeur ever published, perhaps ever made. The selection is from photo- 
graphs collected during a period of many months from all available sources, 
and represents the most striking work of many photographers. 

The portfolio is dedicated to the American people. It is my great hope 
that it will serve to turn the busy eyes of this Nation upon its national parks 
long enough to bring some realization of what these pleasure gardens ought to 
mean, of what so easily they may be made to mean, to this people. 

Stephen T. Mather, 

Director, National Park Service. 



(5) 



THE NATIONAL PARKS AT A GLANCE 

Number, 19; Total Area, 10,859 Square Miles. Arranged chronologically in the order of their creation. 



NATIONAL PARK 
and Date 



Hot Springs Res- 
ervation 



Yellowstone 

1872 



YOSEMITE 



Sequoia 



General Grant 



Mount Rainier 



Crater Laki: 
1902 

Wind Cave 
1903 

Platt 

1004 

Sullys Hill 

1904 

Mesa Verde 
1906 

Glacier 
1910 



Rocky Mountain 
1915 

Hawaii 
1916 

Lassen Volcanic 
1916 

Mount McKinley 
1917 

Grand Canyon 

1919 

Lafayette 
1919 

Zion 
1919 



LOCATION 



Middle 

Arkansas 



North- 
western 
Wyoming 



Middle 
eastern 
California 

Middle 
eastern 
California 

Middle 

California 



AREA 



square 
miles 



3,348 



I, 125 



252 



DISTINCTIVE CHARACTERISTICS 



West 

central 

Washington 


3 2 4 


Southern 
Oregon 


249 


South 
Dakota 


17 


Southern 
Oklahoma 


i',- 


North 
Dakota 


1'.. 


Southern 
Colorado 


77 


North- 
western 
Montana 


1, 534 


Northern 
Colorado 


393 


Hawaii 


118 


Northern 
California 


124 


South 
central 

Alaska 


2, 200 


Northern 
Arizona 


958 


Maine 
Coast 


8 


South- 
western 
Utah 


120 



46 hot springs possessing curative properties — Many hotels 
and boarding houses in adjacent city of Hot Springs — 
Bathhouses under public control. 

More geysers than in all rest of world together— Boiling 
springs — Mud volcanoes — Petrified forests—Grand Canyon 
of the Yellowstone, remarkable for gorgeous coloring — 
Large lakes and waterfalls — Wilderness inhabited by deer, 
elk, bison, moose, antelope, bear, mountain sheep, etc. 

Valley of world-famed beauty — Lofty cliffs— Romatic vis- 
tas — Waterfalls of extraordinary height — 3 groves of big 
trees — Large areas of snowy peaks — Waterwheel falls. 

The Big Tree National Park — 12,000 sequoia trees over 10 
feet in diameter, some 25 to 36 feet in diameter. 

Cheated to preserve the celebrated General Grant Tree, 35 
feet in diameter — 6 miles from Sequoia National Park. 

Largest accessible single-peak glacier system — 28 glaciers, 
some of large size — 48 square miles of glacier, 50 to 1,000 
feet thick — Remarkable subalpine wild-flower fields. 

Lake of extraordinary blue in crater of extinct volcano, no 
visible inlet, or outlet — Sides 1,000 feet high. 

Large natural cavern. 

vSulphur and other springs possessing curative properties — 
Under Government regulation. 

Wooded hilly tract on Devils Lake. 

Most notable and best preserved prehistoric cliff dwellings 
in United States, if not in the world. 

Rugged mountain region of unsurpassed alpine character — 
250 glacier-fed lakes of romantic beauty — 60 small gla- 
ciers—Peaks of unusual shape— Precipices thousands of 
feet deep — Fine trout fishing. 

Heart of the Rockies— Snowy Range, peaks 11,000 to 14.25° 
feet altitude — Remarkable records of glacial period. 

Two active volcanoes, Mauna Loa, largest in the world, 
and Kilauea, whose lake of bubbling lava is world famed — 
A third volcano, Haleakala, crater 8 miles wide. 

Active volcano— Lassen Peak, 10,437 feet i n altitude — 
Cinder Cone, 6,907 feet— Hot springs— Mud geysers. 

Highest Mountain in North America — Rises higher above 
surrounding country than any mountain in the world. 

Greatest example of stream erosion in the world — More than 

10 miles wide — More than 1 mile deep. 
Group of granite mountains rising upon Mount Desert 

Island. 
Magnificent gorge (Zion Canyon), depth from 800 to 2,000 

feet, with precipitous walls, of great beauty and scenic 

interest . 



(6) 



CONTENTS 



NATIONAL PARKS 

NAME PAGE 

Crater Lake 2 Diagrams, 24 Views . .107 

General Grant 3 Views 68 

Glacier 26 Views 155 

Grand Canyon 25 Views 203 

Hawaii 9 Views 235 

Hot Springs op Arkansas 6 Views 226 

Lafayette 5 Views 245 

Lassen Volcanic 2 Views 231 

Mesa Verde 31 Views 131 

Mount McKinley 2 Views 234 

Mount Rainier 26 Views 83 

Platt * 244 

Rocky Mountain 32 Views 179 

Sequoia . 26 Views 59 

Sullys Hill 244 

Wind Cave 244 

Yellowstone 35 Views 11 

YosemiTE .... 31 Views 35 

Zion 6 Views 240 

NA TI( )NA L MONUMENTS 

Page Page 

Capulin Mountain 262 Map of Parks and Monuments . 266 

Casa Grande 262 Navajo 264 

Chaco Canyon 259 Natural Bridges 258 

Colorado 259 Papago Saguaro 262 

Devils Tower . . - . . . . 256 Pinnacles 263 

Dinosaur 260 Petrified Forest 265 

El Morro 262 Rainbow Bridge 261 

Gran Quivira 264 Shoshone Cavern 259 

Katmai 252 Sitka 265 

Lewis and Clark Cavern . . 260 Tumacacori 264 

Montezuma Castle 256 Verendrye 262 

Muir Woods 257 

(7) 



DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A NATIONAL PARK 
AND A NATIONAL MONUMENT 




HE difference between a national park and a national 
monument is not always easy to define. A national park 
is created by Congress with the implied purpose of devel- 
opment by appropriations for the public enjoyment. A 
national monument is proclaimed by the President to conserve some 
historical structure or landmark, or some restricted area of unusual 
scientific value; there is no presumption of development. 

A national park is supposed to have park-like area, but several are 
very small. A national monument is supposed to be confined to the 
object conserved, but several have large areas. 

The act of August 25, 19 16, creating the National Park Service and 
recent appropriations for the development of several national monuments 
tend to further extinguish differences. 

For travel purposes it may be assumed that all national parks within 
the United States are ready for all visitors, including motorists in their 
own cars. One can comfortably reach and see many of the national 
monuments, but it will be safer to make special inquiry in advance of 
starting. 

(9) 




Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul 



OLD FAITHFUL 



T FT F 

YELLOWSTONE 

NATIONAL 
PARK 



(») 




Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul 

The Great Falls of the Yellowstonf, Nearly Twice as High as Niagara 
Below these falls the river enters the gorgeously colored Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone 



(12) 




Copyright, 1906, by W S. Berry 



Antelope 



THE LAND of WONDERS 




HE Yellowstone National Park is the largest and most widely cele- 
brated of our national parks. It is a wooded wilderness of thirty- 
three hundred square miles. It contains more geysers than are 
found in the rest of the world together. It has innumerable boiling 
springs whose steam mingles with the clouds. 

It has many rushing rivers and large lakes. It has waterfalls of great 
height and large volume. It has fishing waters unexcelled. 

It has canyons of sublimity, one of which presents a spectacle of broken 
color unequaled. It has areas of petrified forests with trunks standing. It 
has innumerable wild animals which have ceased unduly to fear man; in fact, 
it is unique as a bird and animal sanctuary. 

It has great hotels and many public camps. It has two hundred miles of 
excellent roads. 

In short, it is not only the wonderland that common report describes; it is 
also the fitting playground and pleasure resort of a great people; it is also the 

ideal summer school of nature study. 

(13) 




Photograph by George R. Kmg 

The Upper Falls of the Yellowstone, a Few Miles Below Yellowstone Lake 
Above these falls the rushing river lies nearly level with surrounding country; below it begin the canyons 

(14) 




Photograph by George R. King 



Crest of the Lower Falls 



THREEFOLD PERSONALITY 



-| HE Yellowstone is associated in the public mind with geysers only. 

T Thousands even of those who, watches in hand, have hustled 
from sight to sight over the usual stage schedules, bring home 
l| vivid impressions of little else. 
There never was a greater mistake. Were there no geysers, the Yellow- 
stone watershed alone, with its glowing canyon, would be worth the national 
park. Were there also no canvon, the scenic wilderness and its incomparable 
wealth of wild-animal life would be worth the national park. 

The personality of the Yellowstone is threefold. The hot- water manifes- 
tations are worth minute examination, the canyon a contemplative visit, the 
park a summer. Dunraven Pass, Mount Washburn, the canyon at Tower 
Falls, Shoshone Lake, Sylvan Pass— these are known to very few indeed. 
See all or you have not seen the Yellowstone. 




Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St Paul 

Castle Well, One of the Innumerable Hot Springs 
These springs, whose marvelously clear water is a deep blue, have an astonishing depth 




Photograph by Edward S. Curtis 

The Carved and Fretted Terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs 
These great white hills, deposited and built up by the hot waters, sometimes envelope forest trees 

(16) 




Photograph by J. E Haynes, St. Paul 

The Giant Geyser, in Many Respects the Greatest of All 
It spouts for an hour at a time, the water reaching a height of 250 feet. Interval, six to fourteen days 

65163 — 21 2 (17) 




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Photograph by J . E. Haynes, .S7. Paul 

Electric Peak, a Superb Landmark of the North Side 



MANY-COLORED CANYON 



I ROM Inspiration Point, looking a thousand feet almost vertically 

Fdown upon the foaming Yellowstone River, and southward three 
miles to the Great Falls, the hushed observer sees spread before 
1 him the most glorious kaleidoscope of color he will ever see in 
nature. The steep slopes are inconceivably carved by the frost and the ero- 
sion of the ages. Sometimes they lie in straight lines at easy angles, from 
which jut high rocky prominences. Sometimes they seem carved from the 
side walls. Here and there jagged rocky needles rise perpendicularly like 
groups of gothic spires. 

And the whole is colored as brokenly and vividly as the field of a kaleido- 
scope. The whole is streaked and spotted in every shade from the deepest 
orange to the faintest lemon, from deep crimson through all the brick shades 
to the softest pink, from black through all the grays and pearls to glistening 
white. The greens are furnished by the dark pines above, the lighter shades 
of growth caught here and there in soft masses on the gentler slopes and the 
foaming green of the plunging river so far below. The blues, ever changing, 
are found in the dome of the sky overhead. 

(20; 







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Copyright by llaynes, St. Paul 

Sylvan Lake, below Sylvan Pass, Cody Road 




Copyright by Gifford 

View from Mount Washburn Showing Yellowstone Lake in Distance 
The northern east side is a country of striking and romantic scenery made accessible by excellent roads 

(21) 



Photograph by J . E. Haynes 

The Holy City from the Cody Road, Eastern Entrance 




Photograph by J . E. Haynes 

Entering Yellowstone from the South — Lewis Falls 

(22) 




Photograph by S. N. Lcck 




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Copyright by S. N. Leek 

The South Entrance Is Near the Lordly Teton Range, Just Over the Boundary 

(23) 




Copyright by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul 

Standing upon Artist's Point, Which Pushes Out Almost Over the Foaming River 

You into the Most Glorious Kaleidosi 
(24) 




sand Feet Below, the Incomparable Canyon of the Yellowstone Widens Before 
Color You Will Ever See in Nature 

(25) 




Copyright by S. N. Leek 

Thirty Thousand Elk Roam This Sanctuary Wilderness 




Photograph by Albert Schlechten 

It is the Natural Home of the Celebrated Bighorn, the Rocky-Mountain Sheep 

(26) 








Photograph by G. Swanson 

Deer Make Unexpected Silhouettes at Frequent Intervals 

GREATEST ANIMAL REFUGE 



T1HE Yellowstone National Park is by far the largest and most suc- 

Tcessful wild-animal preserve in the world. Since it was estab- 
lished in 1872 hunting has been strictly prohibited, and elk, bear, 
1 | deer of several kinds, antelope, bison, moose, and bighorn mountain 
sheep roam the valleys and mountains in large numbers. Thirty thousand elk, 
for instance, live in the park. Antelope, nearly extinct elsewhere, here abound. 
These animals have long since ceased to fear man as wild animals do every- 
where except in our national parks. While few tourists see them who follow 
the beaten roads in the everlasting sequence of stages, those who linger in the 
glorious wilderness see them in an abundance that fairly astonishes. 



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Photograph by S. N. Leek 

In Winter When the Snows Are Deep Park Rangers Leave Hay in Convenient Spots 



ANIMALS REALLY AT HOME 




Photograph by Edward S. Curtis 

Unlike the Grizzly, the Brown Bear Climbs Trees Quickly and Easily 




ERY different, indeed, from the beasts of the after-dinner story 
and the literature of adventure are the wild animals of the Yel- 
lowstone. Never shot at, never pursued, they are comparatively 
as fearless as song-birds nestling in the homestead trees. 
Wilderness bears cross the road without haste a few yards ahead of the 
solitary passer-by, and his accustomed horses jog on undisturbed. Deer by 
scores lift their antlered heads above near thickets to watch his passing. Elk 
scarcely slow their cropping of forest grasses. Even the occasional moose, 
straying far from his southern wilderness, scarcely quickens his long lope. 
Herds of antelope on near-by hills watch but hold their own. 

Only the grizzly and the mountain sheep, besides the predatory beasts, still 
hide in the fastnesses. But even the mountain sheep loses fear and joins the 
others in winters of heavy snow when park rangers scatter hay by the roadside. 

(29) 




•^SIPviL:;!^ 



i 1 













Photograph by S. N. Leek 



THE PARADISE OF ANGLERS 




HE Yellowstone is a land of splendid rivers. Three watersheds find 
their beginnings within its borders. From Yellowstone Lake flows 
north the rushing Yellowstone River with its many tributaries; 
from Shoshone, Lewis, and Heart Lakes flows south the Snake 
River; and in the western slopes rise the Madison and its many tributaries. 
All are trout waters of high degree. 

The native trout of this region is the famous cutthroat. The gravling is 
native in the Madison River and its tributaries. Others have been planted. 
Besides the stream fishing, which is unsurpassed, the lakes, particularly 
Shoshone Lake and certain small ones, afford admirable sport. 




Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul 

A Big Lake Trout from Shoshone Lake 
The game cutthroat is the commonest trout in the Yellowstone, but there are six other varieties 

(30) 




Photograph by J. E. Hayncs St Paid 

Cutthroats from One to Three or Four Pounds Are Taken in Large Numbers 
at the Yellowstone Lake Outlet 




Copyright by Gifford 



Young Pelicans on Molly Island in Yellowstone Lake 
1 he \ ellowstone pelicans are very large and pure white, a picturesque feature of the park 

fax) 




Housekeeping in the Ope 




Photograph by J. E. Haynes 



Trouting in Yellowstone Lake 

(32) 




There Are Also Large Public Camps 



LIVING in the YELLOWSTONE 




HE park has entrances on all four sides. Three have railroad 

connections; the southern entrance, by way of Jackson Hole and 

past the jagged snowy Tetons, is available for vehicles. The roads 

from all entrances enter a central belt road which makes a large 

circuit connecting places of special interest. 

Four large hotels are located at points convenient for seeing the sights, and 
are supplemented by public camps at modest prices. 

But the day of the unhurried visitor has dawned. If you want to enjoy 
your Yellowstone, if, indeed, you want even to see it, you should make your 
minimum twice five days; two weeks is better; a month is ideal. 

Spend the additional time at the canyon and on the trails. See the lake 
and the pelicans. Fish in Shoshone Lake. Climb Mount Washburn. Spend a 
day at Tower Falls. See Mammoth Hot Springs. Hunt wild animals with a 
camera. Stay with the wilderness and it will repay you a thousandfold. Fish 
a little, study nature in her myriad wealth — and live. 

The Yellowstone National Park is ideal for camping out. When people 
realize this it should quickly become one of the most lived in, as it already 
is one of the most livable, of all our national parks. 



65163 



(.33) 




Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Paul 



Old Faithful Inn 




Photograph by J. E. Haynes, St. Pout 



The Lake Hotel 
Three ok the Four Large Hotels in the Yellowstone National Park 

(34) 




Photograph by A. C. Pillsbury 

The Highest Waterfall in the World — the Yosemite Falls 

The Upper Fall measures 1,430 feet, as high as nine Niagaras. The Lower Fall measures 320 feet 
The total drop from crest to river, including intermediate cascades, is almost half a mile 

(36) 



SL 







"0m 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

The Yosemite Valley from Inspiration Point, Showing Bridalveil Falls 

LAND of ENCHANTMENT 




HO does not know of the Yosemite Valley? And yet, how few 
have heard of the Yosemite National Park! How few know that 
this world-famous, incomparable Valley is merely a crack seven 
miles long in a scenic masterpiece of eleven hundred square miles! 
John Muir loved the Valley and crystallized its fame in phrase. 
But still more he loved the National Park, which he describes as including 
"innumerable lakes and waterfalls and smooth silky lawns; the noblest forests, 
the loftiest granite domes, the deepest ice-sculptured canyons, the brightest 
crystalline pavements, and snowy mountains soaring into the sky twelve and 
thirteen thousand feet, arrayed in open ranks and spiry-pinnacled groups par- 
tially separated by tremendous canyons and ampitheaters ; gardens on their 
sunny brows, avalanches thundering down their long white slopes, cataracts 
roaring gray and foaming in the crooked rugged gorges, and glaciers in their 
shadowy recesses working in silence, slowly completing their sculptures; new- 
born lakes at their feet, blue and green, free or encumbered with drifting ice- 
bergs like miniature Arctic Oceans, shining, sparkling, calm as stars." 

(37) 




The Yosemite Valley from Glacier Point 
The Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls are here shown in partial profile 

(38) 




Photograph by J. T. Boysen 



Half Dome, from Near Washington Column 
Its summit is 4,892 feet above the floor of the Valley 



(39) 




P holograph by A. C. PUlsbury 

The Sheer Immensity of the Precipices on Either Side the Valley's Peaceful 

Quality of the Ever-Vary 

(40) 




he Romantic Majesty of the Granite Walls, and the Unreal, Almost Fairylike 
le, Attest It Incomparable 



(41) 




Early Morning Beside Mirror Lake 

This lake is famous for its reflections of the cliff's. Mount Watkins in the hackground 

(42) 




Copyrighted, iqio, by J. T. Boysen 



El Capitan at Sunset 
This gigantic rock, whose hard granite resisted the glacier, rises 3,604 feet from the Valley floor 



THE VALLEY INCOMPARABLE 





Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Beautiful Vernal Falls 



HE first view of most 
spots of unusual 
celebrity often falls 
short of expecta- 
tion, but this is seldom, if ever, 
true of the Yosemite Valley. 
The sheer immensity of the 
precipices on either side of the 
peaceful floor; the loftiness and 
the romantic suggestion of the 
numerous waterfalls; the maj- 
esty of the granite walls; and 
the unreal, almost fairy quality 
of the ever-varying whole can 
not be successfully foretold. 

This valley was once a tor- 
tuous river canyon. So rapidly 
was it cut by the Merced that 
the tributary valleys soon re- 
mained hanging high on either 
side. Then the canyon became 
the bed of a great glacier. It 
was widened as well as deepened, 
and the hanging character of the 
side valleys was accentuated. 

This explains the enormous 
height of the waterfalls. 

The Yosemite Falls, for in- 
stance, drops 1,430 feet in one 
sheer fall, a height equal to 
nine Niagara Falls piled one on 
top of the other. The Lower 
Yosemite Fall, immediately be- 
low, has a drop of 320 feet, 
or two Niagaras more. Vernal 
Falls has the same height. The 
Nevada Falls drops 594 feet 
sheer, and the celebrated Bridal- 
veil Falls 620 feet. Nowhere 
else in the world may be had a 
water spectacle such as this. 



(44) 



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Its Name Is Self-Evident — the Bridalveil Falls 

(45) 




Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts 



Tenaya Lake. 




A Striking View of Nevada Falls, Liberty Cap on Left 

(46) 




Photograph byA.C. P'.lhbury 

Vernal and Nevada Falls and Half Dome from the Glacier Point Trail 




Photograph by J. T. Boysen 



A Bend in the Big Oak Flat Road 

(47) 



CHARM OF THE SCENIC WILD 





Photograph by I ' . S. Reclamation Service 

The Grizzly Giant, the Biggest 
Yosemite Sequoia 



UMMER in the Yosemite is 
unreal. The Valley, with its 
foaming falls dissolving into 
mists, its calm forests hiding 
the singing river, its enormous granites 
peaked and domed against the sky, its in- 
spiring silence haunted by distant water, 
suggests a dream. One has a sense of 
fairyland and the awe of infinity. 

Imagine Cathedral Rocks rising 
twenty-six hundred feet above the wild 
flowers, El Capitan thirty-six hundred 
feet, Sentinel Dome four thousand feet, 
Half Dome five thousand feet, and 
Clouds Rest six thousand feet! And 
among them, the waterfalls! 

Even the weather appears impossi- 
ble; the summers are warm, but not too 
warm; dry, but not too dry; the nights 
cold and marvelously starry. 

A few miles away are the Big Trees, 
not the greatest groves nor the greatest 
trees, for those are in the Sequoia Na- 
tional Park, a hundred miles south, but 
three groves containing monsters which, 
next to Sequoia's, are the hugest and the 
oldest living things. Of these the Grizzly 
Giant is king — whose diameter is nearly 
thirty feet, whose girth is over ninety- 
nine, and whose height is more than two 
hundred. Their presence commands the 
silence due to worship. 

Winter is becoming a feature in the 
life of the Valley. Hotels are open to 
accommodate an increasing flow of vis- 
itors. The falls are still and frozen, the 
trees laden with snowy burdens. The 
greens have vanished; the winter sun 
shines upon a glory of gray and white. 

Winter sports are rapidly becoming 
popular on the floor of the Valley. 
(48) 




Photograph by J . T. Boysen 



Sleighing and Skiing in Yosemite 
Winter sports are rapidly becoming popular on the floor of the Valley 




Photograph by J. T. Boysen 
65163°— 21 4 



Skating on Ice on Mirror Lake 

(49) 



LIVING IN THE WILDERNESS 




Copyrujlitcd, 1910, by J. T. Boysen 

Who's Coming? 




ilIVING is comfortable in the 

LYosemite. Several roomy pub- 
lic camps, and a fine hotel offer 
1| the visitor to the Valley a 
choice of kind and price. Above the Val- 
ley lodges and most comfortable camps 
occur at convenient intervals on road and 
trail. There is a new hotel on Glacier Point. 

These improved conditions begin the 
larger development of the Yosemite Na- 
tional Park which the Department of the 
Interior has planned so long and so care- 
fully. It has there inaugurated a model 
policy for all the national parks. The 
Yosemite is reached from Merced. 

The Yosemite is an excellent place to 
camp out. One may have choioe of many 
kinds of mountain country. Nearly every- 
where the trout fishing is exceptionally 
fine. Camping outfits may be rented and 
supplies purchased in the Valley. Garages 
for motorists and rest-houses for trampers 
will be found at convenient intervals. 

TIOGA ROAD 




Copyrighted, 



igio, by J. T. Boysen 

Woof ! 



BOVB the north rim of the 
valley the old Tioga Road, 
which the Department of the 
Interior acquired in 191 5 and 
put into good condition, crosses the park 
from east to west, affording a new route 
across the Sierra and opening to the pub- 
lic for the first time the magnificent scenic 
region in the north. 

The Tioga Road was built in 1881 to a 
mine soon after abandoned. For years it 
has been impassable. It is now the gate- 
way to a wilderness heretofore accessible 
only to campers. 

*5°) 



NORTH OF THE VALLEY'S RIM 




EFORE the restored Tioga Road made accessible the magnificent 

mountain and valley area constituting the northern half of the 

Yosemite National Park, this pleasure paradise was known to none 

except a few enthusiasts who penetrated its wilderness year after 

year with camping outfits. 

This is the region of rivers and lakes and granite domes and brilliantly 
polished glacial pavements. The mark of the glacier is seen on every hand. 
It is the region of small glaciers, remnants of a gigantic past, of which there 
are several in the park. It is the region of rock-bordered glacier lakes of 
which there are more than two hundred and fifty. It is the region, above all, 
of small, rushing rivers and of the roaring, foaming, twisting Tuolumne. 

From the base of the Sierra crest, born of its snows, the Tuolumne River 
rushes westward roughly paralleling the Tioga Road. Midway it slants 
sharply down into the Tuolumne Canyon forming in its mad course a water 
spectacle destined some day to world fame. 




Photograph by 11. C. Tibbitts 



Tioga Road Scenery 
(51) 




(sai 




Photograph by W . L. Huber 

The High Sierra: View of Mount Ritter from Kuna Crest 




Photograph by Herbert W . Gleason 

Beautiful Rogers Rake and Regulation Peak in the Northern Part of the Park 

(54) 




Photograph by W. L. Huber 

Sierra Club Getting Dinner in Tuolumne Meadow 




Photograph by C. O. Schneider 



A Bed Chamber in Yosemite 



Travelers on the trails carry no tents because it does not rain. A sleeping-bag, a pine-needle 
mattress, a sheltered grove, and a ceiling of green leaves amply suffices. 

(ss) 




(56) 











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The Waterwheel Below California Falls 



MAD WATERS of TUOLUMNE 




ONE but the hardiest climbers have clambered down the Grand 
Canyon of the Tuolumne and seen its leaping waters. 

Here the river, slanting sharply, becomes, in John Muir's 
phrase, "one wild, exulting, onrushing mass of snowy purple bloom 
spreading over glacial waves of granite without any definite channel, gliding in 
magnificent silver plumes, dashing and foaming through huge bowlder dams, leap- 
ing high in the air in wheellike whirls, displaying glorious enthusiasm, tossing 
from side to side, doubling, glinting, singing in exuberance of mountain energy." 




Photograph by A. C. Pillsbury 



A Pair of Tuolumne Watfrwheels 

(57) 



THE EVERLASTING SNOWS 




UMMITS of perpetual 
snow are, for most Amer- 
icans, a new association 
with Yo semite. But the 
region's very origin was that Sierra 
whose crest peaks on the park's eastern 
boundary still shelter in shrunken old 
age the once all-powerful glaciers. 

Excelsior, Conness, Dana, Kuna, 
Blacktop, Lyell, Long — from the com- 
panionship of these great peaks de- 
scended the ice-pack of old and de- 
scend to-day the sparkling waters of 
the Tuolumne and the Merced. 

From their great summits the 
climber beholds a sublime wilderness of 
crowded, towering mountains, a con- 
trast to the silent, uplifting Valley as 
striking as mind can conceive. Ever- 
lasting snows fill the hollows between 
the peaks and spatter their jagged 
granite sides. The glaciers feed in 
numerable small lakes. 




Photograph by II'. L. Hubcr 

Ascending Mount Lyell 










Photograph by IV. L. Hubcr 

Crossing Snow Hummocks in the Ascent of Mount Lyell 

• (58) 



THE BIG TREE NATIONAL PARK 

TO U 

SEQUOIA 

NATIONAL PARK 




Photograph by A. C. Pillsbury 



Morning in the Giant Forest 



(59) 




Photograph by Rodney L. Glisan 

View of the Big Arroyo from Sawtooth Peak 

(60) 









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Photograph by U. S. Geological Survey 

It Is the Ideal Park for Camping 



LAND OF GIANT TREES 



ATURE'S forest masterpiece is John Muir's designation of the 

N giant tree after which is named the Sequoia National Park in 
middle eastern California. Here, within an area of two hundred 
and thirty-seven square miles, are found several large groves of 
the celebrated Sequoia Washingtoniana, popularly known and widely celebrated 
as the Big Tree of California. 

More than a million of these trees grow within the park's narrow confines, 
many of them mere babes of a few hundred years, many sturdy youths of a 
thousand years, many in the young vigor of two or three thousand years, and 
a few in full maturity. The principal entrance is Visalia, California. 

Half a dozen miles away is the General Grant National Park, whose four 
square miles were set apart because they contained the General Grant Tree, 
second only in size and age to the patriarch of all, the General Sherman Tree. 

On Sequoia's favored slopes grow other monsters also. It is the park of 
magnificent trees of many kinds, and it is the park of birds. 

The Sequoia National Park is the gateway to one of the grandest scenic 
areas in this or any other land. Over its borders to the north and east lies 
a land of sublime nobility whose wild rivers and tortuous canyons, whose 
glacier-carved precipices and vast snowy summits culminating in the supreme 
altitude of Whitney, will make it some day surpassed in celebrity by none. 

(6i) 



THE BIGGEST THING ALIVE 




Photograph by Lindley Eddy 

The General Sherman Tree 




thousand 
diameter. 



F the 1,156,000 se- 
quoia trees, old and 
young, which form 
these groves, twelve 
exceed ten feet in 
Muir states that a 



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ie largest a 



nd oldest living thing in all the world 

(62) 



diameter of twenty feet and a 
height of two hundred and 
seventy-five is perhaps the 
average for mature and favor- 
ably situated trees, while trees 
twenty-five feet in diameter and 
approaching three hundred in 
height are not rare. 

But the greatest trees have 
astonishing dimensions: 

General Sherman : diameter, 
36.5 feet; height, 279.9 feet. 

General Grant: diameter, 
35 feet; height, 264 feet. 

Abraham Lincoln : diam- 
eter, 31 feet; height, 270 feet. 

California: diameter, 30 
feet; height, 260 feet. 

George Washington: diam- 
eter, 29 feet; height, 255 feet. 

A little effort will help you 
realize these dimensions. Meas- 
ure and stake in front of a 
church the diameter of the Gen- 
eral Sherman Tree. Then stand 
back a distance equal to the 
tree's height. Raise your eyes 
slowly and imagine this huge 
trunk rising in front of the 
church. When you reach a point 
in the sky forty-five degrees up 
from the spot on which you 
stand you will have the tree's 
height were it growing in front 
of your church. 



THE OLDEST THING ALIVE 



njHE General Sherman 

TTree is the oldest 
living thing. At the 
1 | birth of Moses it 
was probably a sapling. Its 
exact age can not be determined 
without counting the rings, but 
it is probably in excess of thirty- 
five hundred years. This looks 
back long before the beginning 
of human history. When Christ 
was born it was a lusty youth 
of fifteen hundred summers. 

There are many thousands 
of trees in the Sequoia National 
Park which were growing thrift- 
ily when Christ was born; hun- 
dreds which were flourishing 
while Babylon was in its prime; 
several which antedated the pyr- 
amids on the Egyptian desert. 

John Muir counted four 
thousand rings on one prostrate 
giant. This tree probably 
sprouted while the Tower of 
Babel was still standing. 

The sequoia is regular and 
symmetrical in general form. 
Its powerful, stately trunk is 
purplish to cinnamon brown 
and rises without a branch a 
hundred or a hundred and fifty 
feet — which is as high or higher 
than the tops of most forest 
trees. Its bulky limbs shoot 
boldly out on every side. Its 
foliage, the most feathery and 
delicate of all the conifers, is 
densely massed. 

The wood is almost inde- 
structible except by fire. 




Photograph by W . L. Huber 

The General Grant Tree 
Second in size and age only to the General Sherman 
(63) 



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Photograph by George F. Bel Jen 



"Deep in the Woody Wilderness" 



WILDERNESS OF MONSTERS 




ERSONS who have seen the Mariposa Grove in the Yosemite National 
Park have seen sequoias of the noblest type; but only in the Giant 
Forest of the Sequoia National Park will they see them in the 
impressive glory of massed multitude and wildest grandeur. To 



walk and wonder through these woods, even for a few hours, is to feel an 
emotion which can be duplicated nowhere else. 

It is not the sequoias alone, as in the Mariposa Grove, that stir the soul, 
but the bewildering and climatic repetition of monsters rising singly and 
superbly grouped from a dense and seemingly endless forest of noble growths of 
many other kinds. 

Without the sequoias this forest would be notable. With their constant 
unexpected repetition the effect is dramatic, even breath-taking. Many of the 
very greatest trees are happened upon casually as the visitor winds through the 
bush-grown aisles of pine, and their sudden appearance is the more dramatic 
because of the freedom of their red pillared stems from the bright green flowing 
moss upon the trunks and branches of the uncountable pines. 

Until July, 191 6, when Congress appropriated $50,000 for the purchase of a 
part of the private holdings in the Giant Forest, it was our national misfortune 
and peril that most of these monster trees remained the property of individuals. 
The balance of the property was purchased for $20,000 by the National Geo- 
graphic Society and donated to the United States. 

(64) 




Photograph by Lindley Eddi 



65163 °^2I- 



Vistas of the Giant Forest 
Many ot these trees were growing thriftily when Christ was born 

—5 (65) 




Photograph by Lnidley Eddy 



Alta Peak from Moro Rock 




Photograph by H. C. Tibbills 



Alta Meadows Near the Giant Forest 

(66) 




Photograph by Lindlcy Eddy 



Sunset from the Rim of Marble Fork Canyon 




Photograph by C. H. Hanult 



The Sierra Club in Camp 

(67) 



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Sequoia and Fir in the General Grant National Park 

(69) 




Photograph by C. H. Hamilton 



An Aged Juniper 
Sequoia is the park of big trees of many kinds, and it is the park ot birds 

(70) 



THE GREATER SEQUOIA 




NE can not think or speak of the Sequoia National Park without 
including the extraordinary scenic country lying beyond its bound- 
aries to the north and east. Not that there is much in common 
between the two, for the park marks the supremacy of forest lux- 
uriance and the outlying country the supremacy of rock-sculptured canyon 
and snowy summit. 

And yet there is the common note of supremacy, each of its own kind. 
And there is the common note of continuity, for, from the lowest valley 
of the wooded park to the peak of our loftiest height, Mount Whitney, nature's 
painting runs the gamut. The parts are indivisible; to separate them is to cut 
in two the canvas of the Master. 

It is this noble area which it is proposed to call the Roosevelt National Park 
as a memorial to the statesman who was, first of all, the apostle of the out-of- 
doors. The country-wide movement to this end found its expression in a bill 
before Congress early in 191 9, which, however, with many other important bills, 
failed to reach a vote upon the statutory adjournment of Congress on March 4. 




Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts 

The Golden Trout Creek 

The trout caught in this stream are brilliantly golden. They are found nowhere else in the world 
except where transplanted from this stream 

(71) 




Photograph by Lindley Edd. 



THE fal: 

This trunk measures 288 feet. Sequoia wood is almost indestructibl 



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: by fire. This tree may have been prostrate for many centuries 

(73) 




Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts 



The Celebrated Kings River Canyon 




Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts 



University Peak from Kearsarge Pass 

(74) 









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Photograph by J. N. Le Conle 

Tehipite Dome, 3,000 Feet Sheer Above the Kings River 

(75) 







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Photograph by S. H. WUlard 

Mount Brewer, "The Mountain Magnificent," From East Lake 




Photograph by S. H. WUlard 



Rae Lake, Probably the Most Beautiful in the High Sierra 

(76) 



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Grand Sentinel, Towering 3,500 Feet Above the River, is one of the Features of 

Kings River Canyon 

(77) 



KINGS AND KERN CANYONS 




ELL outside the park's boundaries and overlooking it from the 
east the amazing, craggy Sierra gives birth in glacial chambers 
to two noble rivers. A hundred thousand rivulets trickle from 
the everlasting snows; ten thousand resultant brooks roar down 
the rocky slopes; hundreds of resultant streams swell their turbulent, trout- 
haunted currents. 

One of these rivers, the Kings, flows west, paralleling the northern boundary 
of the park. The other, the Kern, flows south, paralleling its eastern boundary. 
The Kings River Canyon, the Tehipite Valley, and the Canyon of the 
Kern are practically matchless for the wild quality of their beauty and the 
majesty of their setting. The traveler goes home to plan his return, for this 
is a country whose peculiar charm lays an enduring clutch upon desire. "The 
Greater Sequoia" has few visitors yet — but they are worshipers. 

Unlike many areas of extreme rocky character, this is not specially difficult 
to travel ; it curiously adapts itself to trails. It is an ideal land for the camper. 
But one must go well equipped. There must be good guides, good horses, 
and plenty of warm clothing. The difference here between a good and an 
indifferent equipment is the difference between satisfaction and miserv. 




Photograph by S. H. Willard 

Roaring Fork. Falls on the South Fork, of the Kings 

(78) 





Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts 

Here the Sierra Has Massed Her Mountains; Tumbled Them Willfully, 
Recklessly, Into One Titanic, Sprawling Heap 

(79) 




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The Summit of Mount Whitney, Nearly Three Mii.es High 




Photograph by Emerson Hough 

Summit of Mount Whitney. The Stone Shelter on Mount Whitney's Summit 




MOUNT RAINIER 

NATIONAL 

PARK 



(s 3 ) 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

A Rippling River of Ice 400 Feet Thick Flowing from the Shining Summit 
Looking from a wild-flower slope down upon the celebrated Nisqually Glacier and up at Columbia Crest 

(84) 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 



Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park 



THE FROZEN OCTOPUS 




ROM the Cascade Mountains in Washington rises a series of vol- 
canoes which once blazed across the sea like giant beacons. To- 
day, their fires quenched, they suggest a stalwart band of Knights 
of the Ages, helmeted in snow, armored in ice, standing at parade 
upon a carpet patterned gorgeously in wild flowers. 

Easily chief of this knightly band is Mount Rainier, a giant towering 
14,408 feet above tidewater in Puget Sound. Home-bound sailors far at sea 
mend their courses from his silver summit. 

This mountain has a glacier system far exceeding in size and impressive 
beauty that of any other in the United States. From its snow-covered summit 
twenty-eight rivers of ice pour slowly down its sides. Seen upon the map, 
as if from an aeroplane, one thinks of it as an enormous frozen octopus stretch- 
ing icy tentacles down upon every side among the rich gardens of wild flowers 
and splendid forests of firs and cedars below. 

(8s) 




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Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

Above Every Curve of the Paradise Road Looms the Great White Mountain 

(86) 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

From Under the Shadowy Firs of Van Trump Park It Glistens Startlingly 

(87) 



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One of the Great Spectacles of America Is Mount Rainier, from Indian Heni 

(88) 




[ting Ground, Glistening Against the Sky and Pictured Again in Mirror Lake 



(89) 




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Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

Looking into a Great Crevasse in the Stevens Glacier 
Crevasses are caused by the swifter motion of the middle than the sides. This ice is 400 feet deep 

(92) 



THE GIANT RIVERS OF ICE 




VERY winter the moisture -laden winds from the Pacific, suddenly 
cooled against its summit, deposit upon Rainier 's top and sides 
enormous snows. These, settling in the mile-wide crater which 
was left after an explosion in some prehistoric age which carried 
away perhaps two thousand feet of the volcano's former height, press with 
overwhelming weight down the mountain's sloping sides. 

Thus are born the glaciers, for the snow under its own pressure quickly 
hardens into ice. Through twenty-eight valleys, self -carved in the solid rock, 
flow these rivers of ice, now turning, as rivers of water turn, to avoid the 
harder rock strata, now roaring over precipices like congealed water falls, 
now rippling, like water currents, over rough bottoms, pushing, pouring 
relentlessly on until they reach those parts of their courses where warmer 
air turns them into rivers of water. 

There are forty-eight square miles of these glaciers. 







js3 



Photograph by Czirtis & Miller 

Snout of Nisqually Glacier Where the Nisqually River Begins 

(93) 




Photograph by Curtis ^ Millet 



Close to the Summit of Mount Rainier 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

Leaving Camp of the Clouds for the Summit 

Nearly every day parties start for the long hard tramp up the glaciers to Columbia Crest. The climbers 
must dress warmly, paint their faces and hands to protect the skin from sunburn, and eat sparingly. 
Dark glasses must be worn. None but the hardy mountain climbers attempt this arduous tramp. 

(94) 



IN AN ARCTIC WONDERLAND 




OF NT RAINIER 
is nearly three miles 
high measured from 
sea level. It rises 
nearly two miles from its im- 
mediate base. Once it was a 
finished cone like the famous 
Fujiyama, the sacred mountain 
of Japan. Then it was prob- 
ably 16,000 feet high. Indian 
legends tell of the great erup- 
tion. 

In addition to the twenty- 
eight named glaciers there are 
others yet unnamed and little 
known. Few visitors have 
seen the wonderful north side, 
a photograph of which will be 
found on a later page. It pos- 
sesses endless possibilities for 
development and easy grades to 
Columbia Crest, the wonderful 
snow-covered summit which is 
the second highest summit in 
the United States. 

Many interesting things 
might be told of the glaciers 
were there space. For example, 
several species of minute insects 
live in the ice, hopping about 
like tiny fleas. They are harder 
to see than the so-called sand 
fleas at the seashore because 
much smaller. Slender, dark- 
brown worms live in countless 
millions in the surface ice. 
Microscopic rose-colored plants 
also thrive in such great num- 
bers that they tint the surface 
here and there, making what is 
commonly called "red snow." 




Photograph bv Curtis & Miller 

Coasting at Paradise Valley 

(95) 




GLACIER AND WILD FLOWER 

ROB ABLY no glacier of large size in the world is so quickly, easily, 
and comfortably reached as the most striking and celebrated, 
though by no means the largest, of Mount Rainier's, the Nisqually 
Glacier. It descends directly south from the snowy summit in a 
long curve, its lower ringer reaching into parklike glades of luxuriant wild 
flowers. From Paradise Park one may step directly upon its fissured surface. 

The Nisqually Glacier is five miles long and, at Paradise Park, is half 
a mile wide. Glistening white and fairly smooth at its shining source on the 
mountain's summit, its surface here is soiled with dust and broken stone and 
squeezed and rent by terrible "pressure into fantastic shapes. Innumerable 
crevasses, or cracks many feet deep, break across it caused by the more rapid 
movement of the glacier's middle than its edges; for glaciers, like rivers of 
water, develop swifter currents nearer midstream. 

Professor Le Conte tells us that the movement of Nisqually Glacier in 
summer averages, at midstream, about sixteen inches a day. It is far less at 
the margins, its speed being retarded by the friction of the sides. 

Like all glaciers, the Nisqually gathers on its surface masses of rock with 
which it strews its sides just as rivers of water strew their banks with rocks and 
floating debris. These are called lateral moraines, or side moraines. Some- 
times glaciers build lateral moraines miles long. The Nisqually ice is four hun- 
dred feet thick in places. 

The rocks which are carried in midstream to the end of the glacier and 
dropped when the ice melts are called the terminal moraine. 

The end, or snout, of the glacier thus always lies among a great mass of 
rocks and stones. The Nisqually River generally flows from a cave in the end 
of the Nisqually Glacier's snout. The river is dark brown when it first appears 
because it carries sediment and powdered rock which, however, it soon deposits, 
becoming clear. 

But this brief picture of the Mount Rainier National Park would miss its 
loveliest touch without some notice of the wild-flower parks lying at the base, 
and often reaching far up between the icy fingers, of Mount Rainier. 

"Above the forests," writes John Muir, the celebrated naturalist, "there 
is a zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circuit and nearly two miles 
wide, so closely planted and luxurious that it seems as if nature, glad to make 
an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep, were economizing the 
precious ground and trying to see how many of her darlings she can get 
together in one mountain wreath — daisies, anemones, columbine, erythroniums, 
larkspurs, etc., among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the bright 
corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is the richest 
subalpine garden I have ever found, a perfect flower elysium." 

(96) 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

Mount Adams from Mount Rainier — Forty Miles Southward 



65163°— 21 — 7 




«-i <u 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

Beautiful Paradise Valley Showing the Tatoosh Ridge 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

Timber-Line and Flower Fields in Beautiful Paradise Valley 




(ioi) 










Photograph byA.H. Barnes 



Snow Cups 

(ioi) 




Mowich Lake, a North-Side Gem of Beauty 




Photograph by Curtis & Altiler 



The Roads Are Admirable 
(io 3 ) 




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Photograph by Curtis & Miller 

The Roads Lead to the Glaciers Through Forests of Fir and Cedar 



(ios) 



EASIEST GLACIERS TO SEE 




HE Mount Rainier National Park is so accessible that one may- 
get a brief close-by glimpse in one day. The new railroad slogan, 
" Four hours from Tacoma to the Glaciers," tells the story. 

But no one unless under dire necessity should think of being so 
near one of the greatest spectacles in nature without sparing several days for 
a real look; several weeks is none too long. Thousands of Americans in nor- 
mal years go to Switzerland to see glaciers much harder to reach and far less 
satisfactory to study. 

An excellent road will carry the visitor by autostage from the railway 
terminus to the several comfortable hotels and camps, most of which are so 
located that the principal scenic points on the south side may be easily reached. 
Pedestrians and horseback riders also follow trails through the gorgeous 
wild-flower parks, Paradise Valley, Indian Henrys Hunting Ground, Van 
Trump Park, Cowlitz Park, Ohanapecosh River and its hot springs, Summer- 
land, Grand Park, Moraine Park, Elysian Fields, Spray Park, Natural Bridge, 
Cataract Basin, St. Andrews Park, Glacier Basin, and others; developing new 
points of view of wonderful glory. 




Photograph by Curtis & Miller 



National Park Inn 

(106) 




(io 7 ) 




Photograph by Fred H . Riser, Portland, Oregon 

Looking Into Its Vast Depths Is Like Looking Into the Limitless Sky 

(ioS) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

The Phantom Ship — Stranded On a Magic Shore 



THE LAKE OF MYSTERY 




RATER TAKE is the deepest and the bluest fresh-water lake in 
the world. It measures two thousand feet of solid water, and the 
intensity of its color is unbelievable even while you look at it. 
Its cliffs from sky line to surface average over a thousand feet high. 
It has no visible inlet or outlet, for it occupies the hole left when, in the dim 
ages before man, a volcano collapsed and disappeared within itself. 

It is a gem of wonderful color in a setting of pearly lavas relieved by patches 
of pine green and snow white — a gem which changes hue with every atmospheric 
change and every shift of light. 

There are crater lakes in other lands; in Italy, for instance, in Germany, 
India, and Hawaii. The one lake of its kind in the United States is by far 
the finest of its kind in the world. It is one of the most distinguished spots 
in a land notable for the nobility and distinction of its scenery. 

Crater Lake lies in southern Oregon. The volcano whose site it has 
usurped was one of a "noble band of fire mountains which, like beacons, once 
blazed along the Pacific Coast." Because of its unique character and quite 
extraordinary beauty it was made a national park in 1902. 

(109) • 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

The Sun Plays Wonderful Tricks With Lights and Shadows 

(no) 



u 



THE SEA OF SILENCE" 




EARLY every visitor to Crater Lake, even the most prosaic, 
describes it as mysterious. To those who have not seen it, the 
adjective is difficult to analyze, but the fact remains. 

The explanation may lie in Crater Lake's remarkable color 
scheme. The infinite range of grays, silvers, and pearls in the carved and 
fretted lava walls, the glinting white of occasional snow patches, the olives 
and pine greens of woods and mosses, the vivid, cloud-flecked azure of the 
sky, and the lake's thousand shades of blue, from the brilliant turquoise of its 
edges to the black blue of its depths of deepest shadow, strike into silence 
the least impressionable observers. "The Sea of Silence," Joaquin Miller 
calls Crater Lake. 

With changing conditions of sun and air, this amazing spectacle changes 
key with the passing hours ; and it is hard to say which is its most rapturous 
condition of beauty, that of cloudless sunshine or that of twilight shadow; 
or of what intermediate degree, or of storm or of shower or of moonlight or 
of starlight. At times the scene changes magically while you watch. 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Scnice 

Playing a Three-Pound Trout From the Rocky Shore 

(hi) 




Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

A Poem in Grays and Greens and Unbelievable Blues 

(112) 




Photograph b$ Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

Cliffs of a Thousand Pearly Hues Fantastically Carved 

6 5 i6 3 °-2i 8 (lI3 ) 








("4) 



Mt Mazama. 




STORY OF MOUNT MAZAMA 




EW of the astonishing pictures which geology has restored for us 
of this world in its making are so startling as that of Mount 
Mazama, which once reared a smoking peak many thousands of 
feet above the present peaceful level of Crater Lake. There 
were many noble volcanoes in the range: Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, 
Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens, Lassen Peak, Mount Mazama, Mount 
Hood, Mount Shasta. Once their vomitings built the great Cascade Moun- 
tains. To-day, cold and silent, they stand wrapped in shining armor of ice. 

But not all. One is missing. Where Mount Mazama reared his noble 
head, there is nothing — until you climb the slopes once his foothills, and gaze 
spellbound over the broken lava cliffs into the lake which lies magically where 
once he stood. The story of the undoing of Mount Mazama, of the birth of 
this wonder lake, is one of the great stories of the earth. 

Mount Mazama fell into itself. It is as if some vast cavern formed in 
the earth's seething interior into which the entire volcano suddenly slipped. 
The imagination of Dore might have reproduced some hint of the titanic 
spectacle of the disappearance of a mountain fifteen thousand feet in height. 

When Mount Mazama collapsed into this vast hole, leaving clean cut the 
edges which to-day are Crater Lake's surrounding cliffs, there was instantly 
a surging back. The crumbling lavas were forced again up the huge chimney. 

But not all the way. The vent became jammed. In three spots only did 
the fires emerge again. Three small volcanoes formed in the hollow. 

But these in turn soon choked and cooled. During succeeding ages 
springs poured their waters into the vast cavity, and Crater Lake was born. 
Its rising waters covered two of the small volcanic cones. The third still 
emerges. It is called Wizard Island. 




(us) 




Photograph by Fred H, Kiser, Portland, Oregon 



Sunset 



THE LEGEND OF LLAO 




CCORDING to the legend of the Klamath and Modoc Indians 
the mystic land of Gay was was the home of the great god Llao. 
His throne in the infinite depths of the blue waters was sur- 
rounded by his warriors, giant crawfish able to lift great claws 
out of the water and seize too venturesome enemies on the cliff tops. 

War broke out with Skell, the god of the neighboring Klamath Marshes. 
Skell was killed and his heart used for a ball by Llao's monsters. But an 
eagle, one of Skell's servants, captured it in flight, and escaped with it; and 
Skell's body grew again around his living heart. Once more he was powerful, 
and once more he waged war against the God of the Lake. 

Then Llao was captured; but he was not so fortunate. Upon the highest 
cliff his body was torn into fragments and cast into the lake, and eaten by 
his own monsters under the belief that it was Skell's body. But when Llao's 
head was thrown in, the monsters recognized it, and would not eat it. 

Llao's head still lies in the lake, and white men call it Wizard Island. 
And the cliff where Llao was torn to pieces is named Llao Rock. 

(116) 




Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

Often the Trees Are as Gnarled and Knotted as the Cliffs They Grow On 

(117) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Looking Down Into the Crater of Wizard Island 



VIEWED FROM THE RIM 




EVERAL clays may profitably be spent upon the rim of the lake, 
which one may travel afoot, on horseback or by automobile. The 
endless variety of lava formations and of color variation may be here 

studied to the best advantage. 

The temperature of the water has been the subject of much investigation. 
The average observations of years show that, whatever may be the surface 
variations, the temperature of the water below a depth of three hundred feet 
continues approximately 39 degrees the year around. This disposes of the 
theory that the depths of the lake are affected by volcanic heat. 

"Apart from its attractive scenic features," writes J. S. Diller of the United 
States Geological Survey, "Crater Lake affords one of the most interesting 
and instructive fields for the study of volcanic geology to be found anywhere 
in the world. Considered in all its aspects, it ranks with the Grand Canyon 
of the Colorado, the Yosemite Valley, and the Falls of Niagara, but with an 
individuality that is superlative." 

(11S) 




Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

Sand Creek, Showing Pinnacles Resulting From Erosion 

("9) 





Photograph by U . S. Reclamation Service 

General View Across Crater Lake Near Sentinel Rock, Showing 
These cliffs vary from a thousand to twelve hundred feet high, occasionally rising to two thousand feet or 

(120) 




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Northern Shore Line, with Red Cone in the Middle Distance 

, The first effect of a view across the lake is to fill the observer with awe and a deep sense of mystery 

(I2l) 




(122) 







(123) 




,•.:; 



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Photograph by Fred H. Kiser 



The Winter Snowfail is Extremely Heavy 

(124) 




Photograph by National Park Serine 

The Moisture-Laden Winds from the Pacific Deposit Their Snow Burden upon Everything 




Photograph by National Park Service 

The Winter Contrast Between the Snow Burdened Cliffs and Trees and the Dark 

Water is Very Striking 

(125) 



THE MINE OF BEAUTY 





Photograph by 

Trout 



Fred II, Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

Run From One to Six Pounds 



RATER LAKE is seen 
in its glory from a 
launch. One may float 
for days upon its sur- 
face without sating one's sense of 
delighted surprise; for all is new 
again with every change of light. 
The Phantom Ship, for instance, 
sometimes wholly disappears. 
Now it is there, and a few minutes 
after, with new slants of light, it 
is gone — a phantom indeed. So 
it is with many headlands and 
ghostlike palisades. 

This lake was not discovered 
until 1853. Eleven Calif ornians 
had undertaken once more the 
search for the famous, perhaps 
fabulous, Lost Cabin Mine. For 
many years parties had been 
searching the Cascades ; again they 
had come into the Rogue River 
region. With all their secrecy 
their object became known, and 
a partv of Oregonians was hastily 
organized to stalk them and share 
their find. The Calif ornians dis- 
covered the pursuit and divided 
their party. The Oregonians did 
the same. It became a game of 
hide-and-seek. When provisions 
were nearly exhausted all the par- 
ties joined forces. 

' ' Suddenly we came in sight 
of water," writes J. W. Hillman, 
then the leader of the combined 
party; "we were much surprised, 
as we did not expect to see any 
lakes and did not know but that 
we had come in sight of and close 
to Klamath Eake. Not until my 



(126) 




Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

The Favorite Way to See the Sculptured Cliffs Is From a Motor Boat 

mule stopped within a few feet of the rim of Crater Lake did I look down, 
and if I had been riding a blind mule I firmly believe I would have ridden over 
the edge to death." 

It is interesting that the discoverers quarreled on the choice of a name, 
dividing between Mysterious Lake and Deep Blue Lake. The advocates of Deep 
Blue Lake won the vote, but in 1869 a visiting party from Jacksonville renamed 
it Crater Lake, and this, by natural right, became its title. 

HOTELS AND CAMPS 

Partly because it is off the main line of travel, but chiefly because its 
unique attractions are not yet well known, Crater Lake has been seen by com- 
paratively few. Under concession from the Department of the Interior, a com- 
fortable camp is operated five miles from the lake and a newly completed hotel 
and camp on the lake's rim. Equipments for camping may be hired. 

(127) 



HARD FIGHTING TROUT 




HIS magnificent body of cold fresh water originally contained 
no fish of any kind. A small crustacean was found in large num- 
bers in its waters, the suggestion, no doubt, upon which was founded 
the Indian legend of the gigantic crawfish which formed the body- 
guard of the great god Llao. 

In 1888 Will G. Steel brought trout fry from a ranch fifty miles away, 

but no fish were seen in 
the lake for more than 
a dozen years. Then a 
few were taken, one of 
which was fully thirty 
inches long. 

Since then trout have 
been taken in ever- 
increasing numbers. 
They are best caught 
by fly casting from the 
shore. For this reason 
the fishing is not always 
the easiest. Often the 
slopes are not propitious 
for casting. One has 
to climb upon outlying 
rocks to reach the 
waters of best depth. 
But the results usually 
justify the effort. The 
trout range from one to 
ten pounds in weight. 
Anglers of experience in 
western fishing testify 
that, pound for pound, 
the rainbow trout taken 
in the cold deep waters 
of Crater Lake are the 
hardest-fighting trout 
of all. 

Many fish are also 
taken from rowboats. 
A trolling spoon will 

Photograph by U. S. Reclamation S, , via & ^ 

Camping Out Back of the Rim often lure large fish. 

(128) 





Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

At the Foot of the Trail From Crater Lake Lodge 



65163° — 21 — 9 



(129) 







Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

Across the Lake From the Rim Road 




Crater Lake Lodge on the Rim, 1,000 Feet Above the Lake 

The lounge occupies the entire ground floor of the center segment of the building, is 40 by 60 feet, without 
a pillar or post, and contains what is said to be the largest fireplace in the State of Oregon 

(130) 




THE 



MESA VERDE 

NATIONAL 

PARK 



(131) 







Photograph by G. M . Can 

Government Road to the Celebrated Prehistoric Ruins 



Showing the woods which justify the title Mesa Verde (Green Table-land) 




Photograph by F.C. Jeep 



Yesterday and To-Day 



CITIES OF THE PAST 




NE December day in 1888 Richard and Alfred Wetherell, searching 
for lost cattle on the Mesa Verde near their home at Mancos, 
Colorado, pushed through dense growths on the edge of a deep 
canyon and shouted aloud in astonishment. Across the canyon, 
tucked into a shelf under the overhanging edge of the opposite brink, were the 
walls and towers of what seemed to them a palace. They named it Cliff Palace. 
Forgetting the cattle in their excitement, they searched the edge of the 
mesa in all directions. Near by, under the overhanging edge of another canyon, 
they found a similar group, no less majestic, which they named Spruce Tree 
House because a large spruce grew out of the ruins. 

Thus was discovered the most elaborate and best-preserved prehistoric 
ruins in America, if not in the world. 

A careful search of the entire Mesa Verde in the years following has resulted 
in many other finds of interest and importance. In 1906 Congress set aside 
the region as a national park. Even yet its treasures of antiquity are not all 
known. A remarkable temple to the sun was unearthed in 191 5. 

(133) 




(134) 




(135) 




Photograph by Geo. L. Bca»i, Denver, Colo. 

The Sun Temple, Looking Northeast. Showing at Left the Trunk c 

(u6) 




DAR 



Tree With 360 Rings Which was Cut Down During Excavation 



(137) 




Photograph by D. IV. Roper 

The Exploration of Newly Discovered Ruins Often Requires Much Hard and 

Even Perilous Climbing 
(138) 




Photograph by M rs. C. R. Miller 

Many Gathered Nightly Around the Camp Fire to Hear Dr. Fewkes Tell the 

Story of the Ancient People 



THE STORY OF THE MESAS 




HOSE who have traveled through our Southwestern States have 
seen from the ear window innumerable mesas or isolated plateaus 
rising abruptly for hundreds of feet from the bare and often arid 
plains. The word mesa is Spanish for table. 
Once the level of these mesa tops was the level of all of this vast South- 
western country, but the rains and floods of centuries have washed away the 
softer earths down to its present level, leaving standing only the rocky spots 
or those so covered with surface rocks that the rains could not reach the softer 
gravel underneath. 

The Mesa Verde, or green mesa (because it is covered with stunted cedar 
and pinyon trees in a land where trees are few) , is perhaps most widely known. 
The Mesa Verde is one of the largest mesas. It is fifteen miles long and 
eight miles wide. At its foot are masses of broken rocks rising from three hun- 
dred to five hundred feet above the bare plains. Above these rise the cliffs. 
The cliff dwellings nestle under, its overhanging cliffs near the top. 

(139) 




IN THE CLIFF DWELLINGS 




IFE must have been difficult in this dry country when the Mesa 
Verde communities nourished in the sides of these sandstone cliffs. 
Game was scarce and hunting arduous. The Mancos River yielded 
a few fish. The earth contributed berries or nuts. Water was 
rare and found only in sequestered places near the heads of the canyons. 
Nevertheless, the inhabitants cultivated their farms and raised their corn, 
which they ground on flat stones called metates. They baked their bread on 
flat stone griddles. They boiled their meat in well-made vessels, some of which 
were artistically decorated. 

Their life was difficult, but confidently did they believe that they were 
dependent upon the gods to make the rain fall and the corn grow. Thev 
were a religious people who worshipped the sun as the father of all and the 
earth as the mother who brought them all their material blessings. They pos- 
sessed no written language and could only record their thoughts by a few sym- 
bols which they painted on their earthenware jars or scratched on the rocks. 

As their sense of beauty was keen, their art, though primitive, was true; 
rarely realistic, generally symbolic. Their decoration of cotton fabrics and 
ceramic work might be called beautiful, even when judged by the highly devel- 
oped taste of to-day. They fashioned axes, spear points, and rude tools of 
stone; they wove sandals and made attractive basketry. 

They were not content with rude buildings and had long outgrown the 
caves that satisfied less civilized Indians farther north and south of them. 

The photographs of Cliff Palace on the following three pages will show not 
only the protection afforded by the overhanging cliffs but the general scheme 
of community living. 

The population was composed of a series of units, possibly clans, each of 
which had its own social organization more or less distinct from the others. 
Each had ceremonial rooms, called kivas. Each also had living rooms and 
storerooms. There were twenty-three social units or clans in Cliff Palace. 

The kivas were the rooms where the men spent most of the time devoted 
to ceremonies, councils, and other gatherings. The religious fraternities were 
limited to the men of a clan. 

(mo) 




Cliff Palack Is thf. Most Celebrated of the Mesa Verde Ruins Because It Is The 

Largest and Most Prominent 



U4') 




Photograph by Geo. L. Beam, Denver, Colo. 

Looking Across Cliff Canyon from Cliff Palace; Sun Temple on Extreme Right in 

Distance on Top of Cliff 

(142) 




Photograph by Arthur Chapman 



The Square Tower of Cliff Palace 




Photograph by Arthur Chapman 



Speaker Chief's House, Cliff Palace 
(143) 



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Photograph by T. G. Lcmnion 

Stones from Sun Temple Covered With Geometrical and Emblematical Designs 

THE MESA'S LITTLE PEOPLE 




NDIANS of to-day shun the ruins of the Mesa Verde. They be- 
lieve them inhabited by spirits whom they call the Little People. 
It is vain to tell them that the Little People were their own an- 
cestors; they refuse to believe it. 
When the national park telephone line was building in 1915 the Indians 
were greatly excited. Coming to the Supervisor's office to trade, they shook 
their heads ominously. 

The poles wouldn't stand up, they declared. Why? Because the Little 
People wouldn't like such an uncanny thing as a telephone. 

But poles were standing, the Supervisor pointed out. All right, the Indians 
replied, but wait. The wires wouldn't talk. Little People wouldn't like it. 

The poles were finally all in and the wires strung. What was more, the 
wires actually did talk and are still talking. 

Never mind, say the Indians, with unshaken faith. Never mind. Wait. 
That's all. It will come. The Little People may stand it — for a while. But 
wait. The Supervisor is still waiting. 

(144) 




Photograph by F. C. Jeep 



Constructive Detail of South Wall, Sun Temple 



DISCOVERY OF SUN TEMPLE 




NTIL the summer of 191 5 no structures had been discovered in 
the Mesa Verde except those of the cliff-dwelling type. Then the 
Department of the Interior explored a mound on the top of the 
mesa opposite Cliff Palace and unearthed Sun Temple. Dr. J. 
Walter Fewkes, who conducted the exploration, believes that this was built 
about 1300 A. D. and marks the final stage in Mesa Verde development. 

Sun Temple was a most important discovery. It marked a long advance 
toward civilization. It occupied a commanding position convenient to manv 
large inhabited cliff dwellings. Its masonry showed growth in the art of con- 
struction. Its walls were embellished by geometrical figures carved in rock. 

A fossil palm leaf, winch the Cliff Dwellers supposed to be a divinely 
carved image of the sun, is embedded in the temple's walls. 




Drawing Showing Constructive Detail of Sun Temple 

t>5it>Z°— 21 10 (145) 




Model of Ear View House 





'4 t ^:^M, ^Xi'-t^&^M&z 




Photograph by George L. Beam 

Excavating Far View House on the Top of the Mesa 

(146) 





Spruce Tree House Hides Under a Huge Overhanging Cliff 

THE PRINCIPAL DWELLINGS 

LIFF PALACE is the most celebrated of the Mesa Verde ruins 
because it is the largest and most prominent. Others are no less 
interesting and important. Spruce Tree House is next in size; 
Balcony House and Square Tower House are equally well preserved. 
There are many others; some of which have yet to be thoroughly explored; 
probably some still undiscovered. 

Cliff Palace is three hundred feet long; Spruce Tree House two hundred and 
sixteen. Cliff Palace contained probably two hundred rooms; Spruce Tree 
House a hundred and fourteen. Spruce Tree House originally had three stories. 
Its population was probably three hundred and fifty. 

The Round Tower in Cliff Palace is an object of unusual interest, but the 
ceremonial kivas, or religious rooms, in all the communities are usually round 
and often were entered from below. 

A subterranean entrance to Cliff Palace was recently discovered. 



(147) 



|g|g(^:~S«^^v t \ 




Entrance to Lower Floors, Spruce Tree House 




Photographby Arthur Chapman 

Spruce Tree House After Restoration by Dr. Fevvk.es 




Photograph by Mrs. C. R. Miller 

Photographing One of the Rooms at Balcony House 



(149) 




Photograph by John P. Dods 



By Motor to Mesa Verde 




Photograph by John P. Dods 



A Modern Descendant 

(150) 













* ■ 




1 


i 


r 


■ _^fl 


JL 


* 


1 




Photographs by J. L. Nusbaum 

Typical Skulls of Prehistoric Man Found in the Mesa Verde 

These skulls show an unusual breadth as compared with Indians of to-day, though of the same ethno- 
logical type. Nordenskiold concludes that the race was fairly robust, with heavy skeletons and 
strong muscular processes. The facial bones are well developed and lower jaw heavy 

SUMMER UPON MESA VERDE 



=n|ESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK is in the extreme southwestern 

M corner of Colorado and is reached by two routes from Denver. A 
night is usually spent en route, and the ruins are reached by 
l [ wagon, horseback, or automobile from Mancos. 
Apart from the ruins, the country is one of much beauty and interest. The 
highest spot on the mesa is Park Point, 8,515 feet in altitude. The mesa's 
northern edge is a fine bluff two thousand feet above the Montezuma Valley, 
whose irrigation lakes and brilliantly green fields are set off nobly against the 
distant Rico Mountains. To the west are the La Salle and Blue Mountains 
in Utah, with Ute Mountain in the immediate foreground. 

The views are inspiring, the entire country "different." In the spring the en- 
tire region blooms. It used to be a country of wild animals and at times deer are 
still plentiful. There is a fairly comfortable camp near Spruce Tree House. 

An unusual attraction of the summer of 19 15 was the unearthing of the 
great mound which covered Sun Temple. Dr. Fewkes maintained a camp near 
the mound and lectured almost nightly to those who gathered around his camp 
fire. The same informal custom will probably be resumed during succeeding 
summers while the exploration of other suggestive mounds is progressing. 

(151) 




(152) 




(153) 




The Interior of a Sacred Kiva 




Photograph by Mrs. C. R. Miller 



Stone Chairs Found at the Cliff Palace 

(154) 




GLACIER 

NATIONAL 

PARK 



(155) 




Photograph by A . J. Bake 



Mount Clkvkland, Highest Summit in Glacier 

(156) 




Pholographby National Park Service 

Gunsight Pass from Shore of Gunsight Lake 

AN ALPINE PARADISE 




OTWITHSTANDING the sixty glaciers from which it derives its 
name, the Glacier National Park is chiefly remarkable for its pic- 
turesquely modeled peaks, the unique quality of its mountain 
masses, its gigantic precipices, and the romantic loveliness of its 
two hundred and fifty lakes. 

Though most of our national parks possess similar general features in addi- 
tion to those which sharply differentiate each from every other, the Glacier 
National Park shows them in special abundance and unusually happy combina- 
tion. In fact, it is the quite extraordinary, almost sensational, massing of these 
scenic elements which gives it its marked individuality. 

The broken and diversified character of this scenery, involving rugged 
mountain tops bounded by vertical walls sometimes more than four thousand 
feet high, glaciers perched upon lofty rocky shelves, unexpected waterfalls of 
peculiar charm, rivers of milky glacier water, lakes unexcelled for sheer beauty 
by the most celebrated of sunny Italy and snow -topped Switzerland, and grandly 
timbered slopes sweeping into valley bottoms, offer a continuous yet ever 
changing series of inspiring vistas not to be found in such luxuriance and per- 
fection elsewhere. 

Glacier National Park lies in western Montana, abutting the Canadian 
boundary. Waterton Lakes Park joins it on the Canadian side. 

(157) 




Photograph by Beatrix Barber 



Cracker Lake and Siyeh Glacier 
(158) 




Photograph by Fred H. Riser, Portland, Oregon 

You Seem Menaced by Glaciers and Waterfalls upon Every Side 

Avalanche Lake, fed from the Sperry Glacier above, lies in a cirque whose precipices rise thousands 

of feet 

(159) 




(i6o) 




O 



65163° 



MAKING A NATIONAL PARK 




OW nature, just how many millions of years ago no man can esti- 
mate, made the Glacier National Park is a stirring story. 

Once this whole region was covered with the prehistoric sea. 
The earthy sediments deposited by this water hardened into rocky 
strata. If you were in the park to-day you would see broad horizontal streaks 
of variously colored rock in the mountain masses thousands of feet above you. 
They are discernible in the photographs in this book. They are the very strata 
that the waters deposited in their depths in those far-away ages. How they 
got from the seas' bottoms to the mountains' tops is the story. 

In the settling of the 
earth's masses into their 
present shape, mountain 
ranges have arisen from 
the sea by internal pres- 
sures. Just as the squeezed 
orange bulges in places, so 
this region was forced up- 
ward. Then it cracked and 
the western edge of the 
earth's skin was thrust 
far over the eastern edge. 
The edge thus thrust 
over was many thousands 
of feet thick and disclosed 
all the geological strata 
which had been deposited 
at that time. In the many 
centuries of centuries since 
all these strata have been 
washed away except the 
bottom layer of the over- 
thrust skin. The rock thus 
disclosed is at least eighty 
millions of years old. It is 
the same rock as the Grand 
Canyon. Glacier National 
Park is the Canadian Rock- 
ies done in Grand Canyon 
colors. Frost and rain and 
glaciers have marvelously 

Photograph by Ellis Prentice Cole CarveCl it. 

Iceberg Lake Where Floes Drift in August 






Photograph by A . S. Thin 

The Circular Wall on the Left Incloses Iceberg Lake. The Enormous Cirque on 
the Right, with Lake Helen Shown in the Lower Right Hand Corner, is the 
Source of the South Fork of the Belly River. The Photograph Remarkably 
Illustrates the Workmanship of Ancient Glaciers Throughout the Park 

THE CARVING OF GLACIER 

HE titanic overthrust which makes Glacier what it is was not accom- 
plished all at once. The movement covered millions of years; change 
might even have been imperceptible in the life of one living there — 
though this was long before man. And during these same many 
millions of years frost and water and wind and glacier erosion were wiping off the 
upper strata and carving the ancient rocks that still remain into the thing of 
beauty that Glacier is to-day. 

To picture this region, imagine a chain of very lofty mountains twisting 
about like a worm, spotted with snow fields and bearing glistening glaciers. 
Imagine them flanked everywhere by lesser peaks and tumbled mountain 
masses of smaller size in whose hollows lie the most beautiful lakes you have 
ever dreamed of. 

Those who have seen the giant glaciers of Mount Rainier or the Alps will 
here see what glaciers of much greater size accomplished in ages past. Iceberg 
Lake, for example, is a mighty bowl shaped like a horseshoe, with sides more than 
two thousand feet high. A glacier hollowed it. Just north of it, the Belly Gla- 
cier hollowed another mammoth bowl of even greater depth ; the wall dividing 
them is seen in the photograph on this page. Vast pits such as these were dug 
by prehistoric glaciers into both sides of the mountains. Often they nearly met, 
leaving precipitous walls. Sometimes they met; thus were created the passes. 




Photograph by A. J. Baker 

Cirque at the Head of Cut Bank River, Showing Mount Morgan 

(i6 4 ) 




Photograph by A. J. Baker 

Cut Bank Pass — Trail Leads up Apparently Perpendicular Wall 

(165) 



ITS LAKES AND VALLEYS 





Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 



HE supreme glory of the 
Glacier National Park is its 
lakes. The world has none 
to surpass, perhaps few to 
equal them. Some are valley gems 
grown to the water's edge with forests. 
Some are cradled among precipices. 
Some float ice fields in midsummer. 

From the Continental Divide seven 
principal valleys drop precipitously 
upon the east, twelve sweep down the 
longer western slopes. Each valley 
holds between its feet its greater lake 
to which are tributary many smaller 
lakes of astonishing wildness. 

On the east side St. Mary Lake is 
destined to world-wide celebrity, but so 
also is Lake McDonald on the west side. 
These are the largest in the park. 

But some, perhaps many, of the 
smaller lakes are candidates for beauty's 
highest honors. Of these, Lake McDer- 
mott with its minaretted peaks stands 
first — perhaps because best known, for 
here is one of the finest hotels in any 
national park and a luxurious camp. 

Upper Two Medicine Lake is an- 
other east-side candidate widely known 
because of its accessibility, while far to 
the north the Belly River Valley, diffi- 
cult to reach and seldom seen, holds 
lakes, fed by eighteen glaciers, which 
will compare with Switzerland's noblest. 

The west-side valleys north of Mc- 
Donald constitute a little-known wil- 
derness of the earth's choicest scenery, 
destined to future appreciation. 

The Continental Divide is usually 
crossed by the famous Gunsight Pass 
Trail, which skirts giant precipices and 
develops sensational vistas in its ser- 
pentine course. 



(166) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Birth of a Cloud on the Side of Mount Rockwell, Two Medicine Lake 




Photograph by U S. Reclamation Service 

Early Morning Cloud Effects at Two Medicine Lake 

Romantic Rising-Wolf Mountain is seen in middle distance 

(167) 



mw^. 




Photograph by Fred II. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

It Is the Romantic, Almost Sensational Massing of Extraordinary Scenic 



Beautiful St. Mary Lake with Going-to-the-Sun Camp in the foregr 



d(,S) 




nts Which Gives the Glacier National Park Its Marked Individuality 
Citadel Mountain in left center, Fusillade Mountain to the right 



(160) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Interior of Many Glacier Hotel, Lake McDf.rmott 

(170) 





•* 


•• 




* 




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K 




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Photograph by L. D. Lindsley 



The End of the Day 



COMFORT AMONG GLACIERS 




SMALL but imposing aggregate of the scenery of the Glacier 
National Park is available to the comfort-loving traveler. There 
are two entrances, each with a railroad station. The visitor 
choosing the east entrance, at Glacier Park, will find autostages 
to Two Medicine Lake, St. Mary Lake, and Lake McDermott. 

At the railway station and at Lake McDermott are elaborate modern hotels 
with every convenience. At Two Medicine Lake, at St. Mary and L T pper 
St. Mary Lakes, at Cut Bank Creek, at Lake McDermott, at a superb point 
below the Sperry Glacier, and at Granite Park are chalets or camps, or both, 
where excellent accommodations may be had at modest charges. 

The visitor choosing the west entrance, at Belton, will find camps and 
chalets there, and an autostage to beautiful Lake McDonald, at the upper 
end of which is a hotel of comfort and individuality, reached by boat. 
There is also boat service on Upper St. Mary Lake. 

But if the enterprising traveler desires to know this wilderness wonder- 
land in all its moods and phases, he must equip himself for the rough trail 
and the wayside camp. Thus he may devote weeks, months, summers to 
the benefiting of his health and the uplifting of his soul. 

(171) 




Photograph by L. D. Lindsley 

The Mountaineers on Tour — Wash Day at Nyack Lake 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

To the Victor Belong the Spoils 

Mary Roberts Rinehart lunching after a morning's trouting on Flathead River 

(172) 



Photograph by George I*. Daucliy 

Beautiful Lake McDonald. Looking Northeast 
Mount Cannon, cloud shrouded, is in the middle distance; Mount Brown on the right 




Photograph by I). S. Reclamation Service 

The Comfortable Hotel Near the Head of Lake McDonald 

(17.5) 




Photograph by National Park Service 

Glenns Lake, Pyramid Peak, and the Shepard Glacier 

(175) 




(z-jb) 




Ph 



u 



C 



6516^ — 21 — 12 



(177) 



CREATURES OF THE WILD 



LACIER, once the 

G favorite hunting 
ground of the 
Blaekfeet and now 
for fifteen years strictly pre- 
served, has a large and grow- 
ing population of creatures of 
the wild. Its rocks and preci- 
pices fit it especially to be the 
home of the Rocky Mountain 
sheep and the mountain goat. 
Both of these large and 
hardy climbers are found in 
Glacier in great numbers. 
They constitute a familiar 
sight- in many of the places 
most frequented by tourists. 
Trout fishing is particu- 
larly line. The trout are of 
half a dozen western vari- 
eties, of which perhaps the 
cutthroat is the most com- 
mon. In Lake St. Mary the 
Mackinaw is caught up to 
twenty pounds in weight. 

So widely are they distrib- 
uted that it is difficult to 
name lakes of special fishing 




Photograph by Fred H. Kiser, Portland, Oregon 

Summit of Appistoki Mountain 

(178) 




THE 

ROCKY MOUNTAIN 
NATIONAL PARK 



(179) 







(180) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Fall River Entrance to the Rocky Mountain National Park 



"TOP OF THE WORLD" 




OR many years the Mecca of eastern mountain lovers has been the 
Rockies. For many years the name has summed European ideas 
of American mountain grandeur. Yet it was not until 191 5 that 
a particular section of the enormous area of magnificent and diver- 
sified scenic range thus designated was chosen as the representative of the 
noblest qualities of the whole. This is the Rocky Mountain National Park. 

And it is splendidly representative. In nobility, in calm dignity, in the 
sheer glory of stalwart beauty, there is no mountain group to excel the company 
of snow-capped veterans of all the ages which stands at everlasting parade 
behind its grim, helmeted captain, Longs Peak. 

There is probably no other scenic neighborhood of the first order which 
combines mountain outlines so bold with a quality of beauty so intimate and 
refined. Just to live in the valleys in the eloquent and ever-changing presence 
of these carved and tinted peaks is itself satisfaction. But to climb into their 
embrace, to know them in the intimacy of their bare summits and their flowered, 
glaciated gorges, is to turn a new and unforgettable page in experience. 

The park straddles the Continental Divide at a point of supreme magnificence. 
Its eastern gateway is beautiful Estes Park, a valley village of many hotels from 
which access up to the most noble heights and into the most picturesque recesses 
of the Rockies is easy and comfortable. Its western entrance is Grand Take. 

(1S1) 




(IS2) 



THE KING AND HIS KINGDOM 




HE Snowy Range lies, roughly 
speaking, north and south. From 
valleys 8,000 feet high, the peaks 
rise to 12,000 and 14,000 feet- 
Longs Peak measures 14,255 feet. 

The gentler slopes are on the west, a region 
of loveliness, heavily wooded, diversified by 
gloriously modeled mountain masses, and 
watered by many streams and rock-bound 
lakes. The western entrance, Grand Lake, is 
a thriving center of hotel and cottage life. 

On the east side the descent from the Con- 
tinental Divide is steep in the extreme. Preci- 
pices two or three thousand feet plunging into 
gorges carpeted with snow patches and wild 
flowers are common. Seen from the east-side 
villages, this range rises in daring relief, craggy 
in outline, snow-spattered, awe-inspiring. 

Midway of the range and standing boldly 
forward from its western side, Longs Peak 
rears his lofty, square-crowned head. A veri- 
table King of Mountains — stalwart, majestic. 

Amazingly diversified is this favored region. 

The valleys are checkered with broad, 
flowery opens and luxuriant groves of white- 
stemmed aspens and dark-leaved pines. Sing- 
ing rivers and shining lakes abound. Frost- 
sculptured granite cliffs assume picturesque 
shapes. Always some group of peaks has 
caught and held the wandering clouds. 

Very different are the mountain vistas. 
From the heights stretches on every hand a 
tumbled sea of peaks. Dark gorges open 
underfoot. Massive granite walls torn from 
their fastenings in some unimaginable upheaval 
in ages before man impose their grav faces. 
Far in the distance lie patches of molten 
silver which are lakes, and threads of silver 
which are rivers, and mists which conceal far-off 
valleys. On sunny days lies to the east a 
dim sea which is the Great Plain. 

(183) 




Photograph by Ems Mills 

Mount Copeland 





ds 4 ) 




(i3s) 




(i86) 




(iS7) 




Photograph by Enos Mills 



RECORDS OF THE GLACIERS 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Moonlight on Grand Lake 



==] FEATURE of this 

A region is the read- 
ability of its records 
1 of glacial action 
during the ages when America 
was making. In few other 
spots do these evidences, in all - 
their variety, make themselves 
so prominent to the casual eye. 

There is scarcely any part 
of the eastern side where some 
enormous moraine does not 
force itself upon passing atten- 
tion. One of the valley villages, 
Moraine Park, is so named from 
a moraine built out for miles 
across the valley's floor by an- 
cient parallel glaciers. 

Scarcely less prominent is 
the long curving hill called the 
Mills Moraine, after Enos Mills, 
the naturalist, who is known 
in Colorado as "the father of 
the Rocky Mountain National 
Park." 

In short, this park is itself a 
primer of glacial geology whose 
simple, self-evident lessons im- 
mediately disclose the key to one 
of nature's chief est scenic secrets. 



(iSS) 




Photograph by Willis T. Lee 

Longs Peak from Boulder Field 
At the extreme right is seen the "Keyhole" through which the summit is reached 




Photograph by Willis T. Lee 



Full Course of the Mills Moraine 



The mighty glacier that heaped it a thousand feet high was born at the foot of Longs Peak 
precipice. The moraine is four miles long 



(189) 




Photograph by John King Sherman 

The Chiseled Western Wall oe Loch Vale 

PRECIPICE -WALLED GORGES 





Photograph by John. King Sherman 

Chasm Lake and Longs Peak 



DISTINGUISHED fea- 
ture of the park is its 
profusion of cliff -cradled, 
glacier-watered valleys 
unexcelled for wildness and the glory 
of their flowers. Here grandeur and 
romantic beauty compete. 

These valleys lie in two groups, 
one north, the other south of Longs 
Peak, in the angles of the main range ; 
the northern group called the Wild 
Garden, the southern group called 
the Wild Basin. 

There are few spots, for instance, 
so impressively beautiful as Loch 
Vale, with its three shelved lakes 
lying two thousand feet sheer be- 
low Taylors Peak. Adjoining is 
Glacier Gorge at the foot of the 
precipitous north slope of Longs 
Peak, holding in rocky embrace its 
own group of three lakelets. 

The Wild Basin, with its wealth 
of lake and precipice, still remains 
unexploited and known to few. 



(190) 




Few Mountain Gorges Are So Impressively Beautiful as Loch Vale 



(191) 




Photograph by George H . Harvey 

Grand Lake from the Continental Divide 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Cache la Poudre Valley at Foot of Specimen Mountain 

(192) 




Photograph by Wiswall Brothers 
65163° — 21 13 



Sky Pond and Taylor Peak, Wild Gardens 
(193) 




Photograph by Enos Mills 



"The End of the Trail" 




Photograph by George C, Barnard, Denver 

An Ideal Country for Winter Sports 

(194) 




Photograph by Wiswall Brothers 



Bluebird Lake, Wild Basin 
(195) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Odessa Lake Is Almost Encircled by Snow-Spattered Summits 

(i 9 6) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Spruce-Girdled Fern Lake, Showing Little Matterhorn in Middle Distance 

(197) 



METROPOLIS o/BEAVERLAND 





Copyright by Wiswall Brothers, Denver 

An Aspen Thicket Trail Is a Path of 
Delight 



HE visitor will not forget 
the aspens in the Rocky 
Mountain National 
Park. Their white trunks 
and branches and their luxuriant 
bright green foliage are never out 
of sight. A trail through an aspen 
thicket is a path of delight. 

Because of the unusual aspen 
growths, the region is the favored 
home of beavers, who make the 
tender bark their principal food. 
Beaver dams block countless streams 
and beaver houses emerge from the 
still ponds above. In some retired 
spots the engineering feats of gener- 
ations of beaver families may be 
traced in all their considerable range. 

Nowhere is the picturesqueness 
of timber line more quickly and more 
easily seen. A horse after early 
breakfast, a steep mountain trail, an 
hour of unique enjoyment, and one 
may be back for late luncheon. 

Eleven thousand feet up, the 
winter struggles between trees and 
icy gales are grotesquely exhibited. 

The first sight of luxuriant En- 
gelmann spruces creeping closely 
upon the ground instead of rising a 
hundred and fifty feet straight and 
true as masts is not soon forgotten. 
Many stems strong enough to partly 
defy the winters' gales grow bent in 
half circles. Others, starting straight 
in shelter of some large rock, bend 
at right angles where they emerge 
above it. Many succeed in lifting 
their trunks but not in growing 
branches except in their lee, thus sug- 
gesting great evergreen dust brushes. 



(i 9 s) 




Photograph by Enos Mills 



Beaver Dams Block Countless Streams 




Photograph by Enos Mills 



Wind-Twisted Trees at Timber-Line 

(199) 




Midway of the Range, Longs Peak Rears His Stately, Square-Crown 

This is the very heart of the Rockies; few pho 



(200) 




>; a Veritable King of Mountains Calmly Overlooking All His Realm 

so fully express the spirit of the Snowy Range 

(201) 




Photograph by V 



i. Reclamation Service 

The Stanley Hotel and Manor 



EASY TO REACH AND TO SEE 




HE accessibility of the Rocky Mountain National Park is apparent 
by a glance at any map. Denver is less than thirty hours from 
St. Louis and Chicago, two days only from New York. Four hours 
from Denver will put you in Estes Park. 
Once there, comfortable in one of its many hotels of varying range of tariff, 
and the summits and the gorges of this mountain-top paradise resolve them- 
selves into a choice between foot and horseback. 

There are also a few most comfortable houses and several somewhat primi- 
tive camps within the park's boundaries at the very foot of its noblest scenery. 




Longs Peak Inn; Altitude 9,000 Feet 

Longs Peak (14,255 feet) in the center of the triple mountain group, flanked by Mount Meeker on 
the left and Mount Lady Washington on the right; across their front is the Mills Moraine 

(-'02) 



THE 



GRAND CANYON 

NATIONAL 
PARK 




By Far the Most Sublime of All Earthly Spectacles." — Charles Dudley Warner 

(203) 




Photograph by George R. King 

"\t Is Beyond Comparison — Beyond Description; Absolutely Unparalleled 
Throughout the Wide World." — Theodore Roosevelt 

(=o 4 ) 








>*• 



%e*£ 



Photograph by U . S. Reclamation Service 

Leaving El Tovar for a Scenic Rim Drive 



COLOSSUS OF CANYONS 




ORE mysterious in its depth than the Himalayas in their height," 
writes Professor John C. Van Dyke, "the Grand Canyon remains 
not the eighth but the first wonder of the world. There is nothing 
like it." 

Even the most superficial description of this enormous spectacle may not 
be put in words. The wanderer upon the rim overlooks a thousand square 
miles of pyramids and minarets carved from the painted depths. Many miles 
away and more than a mile below the level of his feet he sees a tiny silver 
thread which he knows is the giant Colorado. 

He is numbed by the spectacle. At first he can not comprehend it. There 
is no measure, nothing which the eye can grasp, the mind fathom. 

It may be hours before he can even slightly adjust himself to the titanic 
spectacle, before it ceases to be utter chaos; and not until then does he begin 
to exclaim in rapture. 

And he never wholly adjusts himself, for with dawning appreciation comes 
growing wonder. Comprehension lies always just beyond his reach. 

The Colorado River is formed by the confluence of the Grand and the 
Green Rivers. Together they gather the waters of three hundred thousand 
square miles. Their many canyons reach tins magnificent climax in northern 
Arizona. The Grand Canyon became a national park in February, 1919. 

(205) 




(206) 




(20 7 ) 




Photograph by Henry Fuermann 

The Rim Road Affords Many Glorious Views 

BY SUNSET AND MOONRISE 



ilHEN the light falls into it, harsh, direct, and searching," writes 

W Hamlin Garland, "it is great, but not beautiful. The lines are 
chaotic, disturbing — but wait! The clouds and the sunset, the 
1 moonrise and the storm, will transform it into a splendor no 
mountain range can surpass. Peaks will shift and glow, walls darken, crags 
take fire, and gray-green mesas, dimly seen, take on the gleam of opalescent 
lakes of mountain water." 




Copyright by Fred Harvey 

Hermit's Rest, Near the Head of the Hermit Trail to the River 

(208) 




Photograph by U . S. Reclamation Service 

"Is Any Fifty Miles of Mother Earth as Fearful, or Any Part as Fearful, as 
Full of Glory, as Full of God?" — Joaquin Miller 

(55i6j°— 21 14 (209) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Still Farther Down the Hermit Trail 



PAINTED IN MAGIC COLORS 




HE blues and the grays and the mauves and the reds are second 
in glory only to the canyon's size and sculpture. The colors 
change with every changing hour. The morning and the evening 
shadows play magicians' tricks. 
"It seems like a gigantic statement for even Nature to make all in one 
mighty stone word," writes John Muir. " Wildness so Godful, cosmic, prime- 
val, bestows a new sense of earth's beauty and size. . . . But the colors, the 
living, rejoicing colors, chanting morning and evening in chorus to heaven! 
Whose brush or pencil, however lovingly inspired, can give us these? In the 
supreme naming glory of sunset the whole canyon is transfigured, as if the 
life and light of centuries of sunshine stored up in the rocks was now being 

poured forth as from one glorious fountain, flooding both earth and sky." 

(210) 




Photograph by U. S. Reclamation Service 

Near the Bottom, Showing Hermit Camp at the Foot of a Lofty Monument 

This photograph was taken several years ago. The camp has since been greatly enlarged, affording 

most comfortable entertainment overnight 



(211) 




Photourapk by F. A . Lalltc 



The Profound Abyss 



ROMANTIC INDIAN LEGEND 




HF f Indians believed the Grand Canyon the road to heaven. 

A great chief mourned the death of his wife. To him came 

the god Ta-vwoats and offered to prove that his wife was in a 

happier land by taking him there to look upon her happiness. 

Ta-vwoats then made a trail through the protecting mountains and led the 

chief to the happy land. Thus was created the canyon gorge of the Colorado. 

On their return, lest the unworthy should find this happy land, Ta-vwoats 

rolled through the trail a wild, surging river. Thus was created the Colorado. 




Photograph by U. S. Forest Service 

The Gorge Near the Mouth of Shinumo Creek. 

(213) 




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Hopi House at El Tovar, Reproduced from an Ancient Hopi Community Dwelling 

(214) 




Copyright by Fred Harvey 



When Clouds and Canyon Meet and Merge 



MASTERPIECE OF EROSION 



I |HE rain falling in the plowed field forms rivulets in the furrows. The 

T rivulets unite in a muddy torrent in the roadside gutter. With suc- 
ceeding showers the gutter wears an ever-deepening channel in the 
— — — . J soft soil. With the passing season the gutter becomes a gully. 
Here and there, in places, its banks undermine and fall in. Here and there the 
rivulets from the field wear tiny tributary gullies. Between the breaks in the 
banks and the tributaries irregular masses of earth remain standing, sometimes 
resembling mimic cliffs, sometimes washed and worn into mimic peaks and spires. 

Such roadside erosion is familiar to us all. A hundred times we have idly 
noted the fantastic water-carved walls and minaretted slopes of these ditches. 
But seldom, perhaps, have we realized that the muddy roadside ditch and 
the world-famous Grand Canyon of the Colorado are, from nature's stand- 
point, identical; that they differ only in soil and size. 

The arid States of our great Southwest constitute an enormous plateau 
or table-land from four to eight thousand feet above sea level. 

Rivers gather into a few desert water systems. The largest of these is that 
which, in its lower courses, has, in unnumbered ages, worn the mighty chasm 
of the Colorado. 



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Copyright by Fred Harvey 

Sunset from Pima Point. "Peaks Will Shift and Glow, Walls Darken, Crags Ta 

Han 



(216) 




and Gray-Green Mesas, Dimly Seen, Take on the Gleam of Opalescent Lakes." — 
land 

(=17) 




(218) 




(219) 




Pholographby U.S. Reclamation Service 

The Lookout at the Head of the Bright Angel Trail Near El Tovar 




Photograph by L .'. S. Reclamation Service 

Waiting for the Signal to Start Down Bright Angel Trail 
One may descend to the riser's edge and back in one day by this trail 

(aso) 




Copyright by Fred Harvey 

The Celebrated Jacob's Ladder on the Bright Angel Trail 
The photograph shows how broad and safe are the Grand Canyon trails. There is no danger in 

the descent 




Photograph bv U. S. Forest Service 



On the Mighty River's Brink 




A Quiet Stretch between Two Rapids 

Within the Canyon the river is crossed by cars suspended on wire cables, and also, in quiet reaches, 

by boats; there are no bridges 



1,222) 




Copyright by Fred Harvey 

Where the River Rests Below the Celebrated Marble Canyon Before Taking Its 
Plunge Into the Gigantic Canyon Below 

The Colorado rolls through many miles of vast canyons before it reaches Grand Canyon 

("3) 



POWELL'S GREAT ADVENTURE 




HE Grand Canyon was the culminating scene of one of the most 
stirring adventures in the history of American exploration. . 

For hundreds of miles the Colorado and its tributaries form a 
mighty network of mighty chasms which few had ventured even 
to enter. Of the Grand Canyon, deepest and hugest of all, tales were current 
of whirlpools, of hundreds of miles of underground passage, and of giant falls 
whose roaring music could be heard on distant mountain summits. 

The Indians feared it. Even the hardiest of frontiersmen refused it. 

It remained for a geologist and a school-teacher, a one-armed veteran of 
the Civil War, John Wesley Powell, afterwards director of the United States 
Geological Survey, to dare and to accomplish. 

This was in 1869. Nine men accompanied him in four boats. 

There proved to be no impassable whirlpools in the Grand Canyon, no 
underground passages, and no cataracts. But the trip was hazardous in the 
extreme. The adventurers faced the unknown at every bend, daily — some- 
times several times daily — embarking upon swift rapids without guessing upon 
what rocks or in what great falls they might terminate. Continually they 
upset. They were unable to build fires sometimes for days at a stretch. 

Four men deserted, hoping to climb the walls, and were never heard from 
again — and this happened the very day before Major Powell and his faithful 
half dozen floated clear of the Grand Canyon into safety. 




Photograph by U . S. Geological Survey 

Two of the Boats Used by Major Powell in Exploring the Canyon 

("4) 



• _ 




Photograph by El Tovar Studio 

Memorial Just Erected by the Department of the Interior to Major John 

Wesley Powell 

It stands on the rim at Sentinel Point. Upon the altar which crowns it will blaze ceremonial fires 

EASY TO REACH AND TO SEE 



IT is possible to get a glimpse of the Grand Canyon by lengthening 

Iyour transcontinental trip one day, but this day must be spent 
either on the rim or in one hasty rush down the Bright Angel Trail 
1 to the river's edge; one can not do both the same day. Two ardu- 
ous days, therefore, will give you a rapid glance at the general features. Three 
days will enable you to substitute the newer Hermit Trail, with a night in the 
canyon, for the Bright Angel Trail. Four or five days will enable you to see 
the Grand Canyon; but after you see it you will want to live with it awhile. 
There are two other trails, the Bass Trail and the Grand View. 

The canyon should be seen first from the rim. Hours, days, may be spent 
in emotional contemplation of this vast abyss. Navajo Point, Grand View, 
Shoshone Point, El Tovar, Hopi Point, Sentinel Point, Pima Point, Yuma 
Point, the Hermit Rim — these are a few only of many spots of inspiration. 

An altogether different experience is the descent into the abyss. This is 
done on mule-back over trails which zigzag steeply but safely down the cliffs. 

The hotels, camps, and facilities for getting around are admirable. Your 
sleeper brings you to the very rim of the canyon. 



65163° 



(225) 




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HOT SPRINGS OF ARKANSAS 

LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK 

MOUNT MCKINLEY NATIONAL PARK 

HAWAII NATIONAL PARK 

ZION NATIONAL PARK 

MID-CONTINENT PARKS 

LAFAYETTE NATIONAL PARK 

THE NATIONAL MONUMENTS 



(2271 



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The Promenade at Hot Springs 




Maurice Spring, Hot Springs Reservation 
This is centrally located and hundreds of persons visit it daily 

(228) 



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Main Entrance to the Hot Springs Reservation 

SPRINGS OF HEALING 




ROM the slopes of a picturesque wooded hill among the wild and 
romantic Ozark Mountains of Arkansas flow springs of hot water 
whose powers to alleviate certain bodily ills have been recognized 
for many generations. Tradition has it that their curative proper- 
ties were known to the Indians long before the Spanish invasion. It is prob- 
able that they were known to De Soto, who died in 1542, less than a hundred 
miles awav. It is tradition that Indian warring tribes suspended all hostilities 
at these healing springs whose neighborhood they called " The Land of Peace." 
Government analyses of the waters disclose more than twenty chemical 
constituents, but it is not these nor their combination to which is principally 
attributed the water's unquestioned helpfulness in many disordered conditions, 
but to their remarkable radioactivity. 

The reservation is the oldest national park, having received that status 
in 1832, forty years before the wonders of the Yellowstone first inspired 
Congress with the idea that scenery was a national asset deserving of pres- 
ervation for the use and enjoyment of succeeding generations. No aesthetic 
consideration w r as involved in this early act of national conservation. Congress 
was inspired only by the undoubted, but at that time inexplicable, natural 
power of these waters to alleviate certain bodily ills. The motive was to retain 
these unique waters in public possession to be available to all persons for all 
time at a minimum, even a nominal, cost. 

(" 9 ) 




One of the Best Goi.f Courses in the South 

DR. NATURE'S WATER CURE 




OT SPRINGS has much besides its curative waters to attract and 
hold the visitor. It has one of the best and most interesting golf 
courses in the South. The surrounding country is romantically 
beautiful. Many miles of woodland trail lead the walker and the 
horseback rider through pine-scented glades and glens and over mountain tops 
of unusual charm. There is tennis for the young folks, ostrich and alligator 
farms for the curious, and the gayeties of life in big hotels for all. 

Hot Springs is not merely a winter resort, as used to be supposed. Climate 
and conditions are delightful the year around, as increasing throngs are rapidly 
discovering. It is above all a place for rest and recuperation. More and more 
winter visitors are remaining through April and May, when the spring is young 
and glorious and the baths the most efficacious. But those who remain after 
March should bring summer clothing, as the temperature then ranges from 65 
to 85 degrees. 

The reservation includes three mountains and a lake, and the tract incloses 
all the forty-six hot springs. Eleven bathhouses, some of them as complete 
and luxurious in equipment as any in the world, are in the reservation, and a 
dozen more in the city, all under Government regulation. There are also cold 
springs possessing curative properties. 

There are many hotels, the largest having accommodations for a thousand 
guests, and several hundred boarding houses, many at very modest prices. 
Cottages and apartments may be rented for light housekeeping. 

Hot Springs Mountain, from whose sides flow the cleansing waters, is about 
fifty miles west by south from Little Rock. 

(230) 



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Photograph by P. J, Thompson 

Crater of Lassen Peak After Eruption of 1914 



ACTIVE VOLCANO AT HOME 




ONGRESS created the Lassen Volcanic National Park in August, 
19 1 6. A month later this volcano was again in active eruption; it 
is the only active volcano in the continental United States. It is 
situated in northern California, and is one of the celebrated series 
of peaks, including Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Hood, Mount Shasta, 
and what was once Mount Mazama (Crater Lake), in the Cascade Range. 

The region is one of extraordinary interest. Lassen Peak is 10,437 feet in 
altitude. Cinder Cone, which showed some activity a few years ago, has an 
altitude of 6,907 feet. North Peak, Southwest Peak, and Prospect Peak are 
prominent elevations in the National Park. 

Other features of interest are the Devils Half Acre, inclosing hot springs 
and mud geysers, Bumpass and Morgan Hot Springs, lakes of volcanic glass, and 
ice caves. There are seven lakes, numerous trout streams, and many majestic 
canyons. There are also forests of yellow and white pine, fir, and lodgepole. 
"On the whole," writes Prof. Douglas W. Johnson, of Columbia University, 
"it is difficult to imagine a region where the more striking phenomena of 
nature are developed on a grander scale." 

(231 j 




Photograph by W . S. Valentine 



Lassen Peak in Eruption, July, 1914 




fc 

& 




MONSTER OF MOUNTAINS 




OUNT McKINLBY, a National Park since 1917, is the loftiest moun- 
tain in America. It towers 20,300 feet above tide. Its gigantic ice- 
covered bulk rises more than 17,000 feet above the eyes of the 
observer. It is ice plated 14,000 feet below its glistening summit. 
This enormous mass is the climax of the great Alaskan Range, which 
extends, roughly, east and west across southeast central Alaska. 

The reservation contains 2,200 square miles. Its northern slopes, which 
overlook the Tanana watershed with its gold-mining industry, are broad valleys 
inhabited by enormous herds of caribou. Its southern plateau is a winter 
wilderness through which glaciers of great length and enormous bulk flow into 
the valleys of the south. In this national park, which the railroad now building 
by Government into the Alaskan interior will open presently to the public, 
America possesses Alpine scenery upon a titanic scale. In fact, it matches the 
Himalayas; as a spectacle Mount McKinley even excels their loftiest peaks, 
for the altitude of the valleys from which the Himalayas are viewed exceeds 
by many thousand feet that of the plains from which the awed visitor looks 
up to McKinley's towering height. 



123-1' 




(.235) 




Photograph by H . O. Wood, Hawaiian Volcano Observatory 

The Celebrated " Ballet Dancer " of Mauna Loa, Hawaii 
A remarkable photograph of the explosion on the flank of Mauna Loa on May 19, 1916 

HAWAII'S SMOKING SUMMITS 




HE Hawaii National Park, created in 191 6, includes three celebrated 
Hawaiian volcanoes, Kilauea, Mauna Loa, and Haleakala. "The 
Hawaiian Volcanoes," writes T. A. Jaggar, director of the Hawaiian 
Volcano Observatory, "are truly a national asset, wholly unique of 
their kind, the most famous in the world of science and the most continuously, 
variously, and harmlessly active volcanoes on earth. Kilauea crater has been 
nearly continuously active, with a lake or lakes of molten lava, for a century. 
Mauna Loa is the largest active volcano and mountain mass in the world, with 
eruptions about once a decade, and has poured out more lava during the last 
century than any other volcano on the globe. Haleakala is a mountain mass 
ten thousand feet high, with a tremendous crater rift in its summit eight miles 
in diameter and three thousand feet deep, containing many high lava cones. 

" Haleakala is probably the largest of all known craters among volcanoes 
that are technically known as active. It erupted less than two hundred years 
ago. The crater at sunrise is the grandest volcanic spectacle on earth." 

The lava lake at Kilauea is the most spectacular feature of the new national 
park. It draws visitors from all over the world. It is a lake of molten, fiery 
lava a thousand feet long, splashing on its banks with a noise like waves of the 
sea, while great fountains boil through it fifty feet high. 

The park also includes gorgeous tropical jungles and fine forests. Sandal- 
wood, elsewhere extinct, grows there luxuriantly. There are mahogany groves. 

(236) 




Photograph by the Geophysical Laboratory, Carnegie Institution 

Near View of the Lava Lake of Kilauea in Heavy Smoke 




Photograph by the Geophysical Laboratory, Carnegie Institution 

Lava Flow on Floor of Kilauea Crater, Showing Curious Ropy Formations 

(237^ 




Photograph by Geophysical Laboratory, Carnegie Institution 

The Kilauea Lava Lake Close By. Picture Taken by the Light of the Lava Itself 

During a Period of Great Activity 




Photograph by Geophysical Laboratory, Carnegie Institution 

Night Photograph of the Kilauea Lava Lake, New Fountain Just Breaking Through. 

Period of Moderate Activity 
(238) 



ITS TROPICAL GARDENS 




LTHOUGH the Hawaii National Park includes only volcanic 
summits, a visit necessarily means all the pleasures of the dreamy 
islands. But the park boundaries include tropical gardens of the 
utmost luxuriance. Tree ferns along the trails rise to a height of 

forty feet. The automobile road to the edge of Kilauea's 

burning pit is bordered with fuschias, and nasturtiums 

climbing over the trees along the way add their gay 

colors to the scene. There are groves of koa trees, 

which produce the Hawaiian mahogany of the glowing 

lighter tints. The ohia tree with its terra cotta pom- 
pom of flowers, the monkey -pod tree with its pink 

feathery bloom, the rich blossoms of the ginger, and 

scores of other bright-colored flowers on tree and shrub 

paint the lower levels in gorgeous hues. The floral pro- 
fusion of the islands is revealed by the fact that the 

brilliant hibiscus appears in Hawaii in fifteen hundred 

varieties. 

Sugar cane, of course, is grown commercially on a 

large scale; and acres upon acres of pineapple clothe 

the valleys with velvety green. The coconut palm with its long slanting 

stem and feathery top, proclaims to the visitor that he is in a strange land. 




The Silver Sword, 
Which Grows Only 
in the Crater of 
Haleakala 




Tree Ferns Rise to a Height of Forty Feet 
(239) 




Photograph by Douglas White 



El Gobernador in Zion Canyon 



This monolith, which rises 3,100 feet from the valley floor, is brilliant red two-thirds up, then 

glistening white 



ZION NATIONAL PARK 




HE latest scenic discovery of America is the canyon of many vivid 
. colors, through which the North Fork of the Virgin River emerges 
from the shales and sandstones of southwestern Utah to find its 
way to the Colorado River and the Pacific. Zion Canyon was 
known to the Mormons as early as 1861 when Brigham Young designated it 
a refuge for his sect in case of trouble. Later it was known to the geologists, 
who buried graphic descriptions in their scientific texts. It was made a 
national monument in 1909, but the public did not discover it until 191 7. Now 
it is reached by rail and motor, and a public camp has comfort for all comers. 

Zion Canyon is in truth the Rainbow of the Desert. Its carved cliffs are 
cmite as high and its conformation not dissimilar to those of the Yosemite 
Valley. But instead of granite, its precipices are of sandstone stratified 
in brilliant contrasts. Most of its cliffs are gorgeously red two-thirds up, 
and glistening white above; and some of these white-topped monsters are 
capped again in crimson. In places the white is streaked across with 
crimson bands like a Roman sash. 




65163°— 21- 



The Public Camp on the Floor of Zion Canyon 

(24O 




Often the White Tops of These Fairy Cliffs are Streaked with Vermilion 




Photograph by Willis T. Lee 



Where the Canyon Narrows 

(242) 




Photograph by R. D. Adams 

From Right to Left: East Temple of the Sun, The Watchman, Mountain of the Sun 




The Three Patriarchs — -Vermilion Two-Thirds Up, with White Summits 

(243) 



MID-CONTINENT PARKS 

THE WIND CAVE NATIONAL PARK 

THE Black Hills of southwestern South Dakota, scene of Custer's first stand, 
famous for many years for Indian fights and frontier lawlessness, are chiefly 
celebrated in this generation for a limestone cave of large size and interesting 
decoration. It is called Wind Cave because of the strong currents of air which 
alternate in and out of its mouth. 

The walls and ceiling of the various passages and chambers which consti- 
tute the cave are elaborately covered with the formations common to most 
caves, which here result in tracery and carvings of the most elaborate and sur- 
prising description. The park is also a game preserve of unusual merit. 

THE PLATT NATIONAL PARK 

COUTH ERN Oklahoma's famous curative springs were conserved for the 
^ public benefit in 1906 by the creation of the Piatt National Park. Sulphur 
springs predominate, but there are bromide and other springs of medicinal value, 
besides several fine springs nonmineral in character. Altogether they have an 
approximate discharge of nearly five million gallons daily. 

Many thousands visit these springs every year. The country is one of 
great charm and is notable for its bird life. The waters are bottled and 
shipped to many parts of the country. 

SULLYS HILL PARK 

' I 'HIS reservation is on the shore of Devils Lake, North Dakota, within two 
miles of the well-known Fort Totten Indian School. It is a country of 
much natural beauty and admirably adapted to the purposes of a game 
preserve, for which Congress recently made appropriations. 



^44) 




Photograph by George R. King 



SEA AND MOUNTAIN MEET 



HHE National Park Service is represented on the Atlantic coast by 

Tthe Lafayette National Park in Maine. It includes the splendid 
grouping of mountains which begins a mile south of Bar Harbor 
1 and covers the southern and western portions of Mount Desert 
Island. The reservation is girt with ocean-side drives and surrounded by 
summer resorts. The splendid lake-studded lands which compose it were 
contributed or purchased by public-spirited citizens and given to the Nation 
in 191 6. Congress made it a national park in 191 9. 

Lafayette offers a marked contrast to the national parks of the West. 
It is the oldest part of continental America. Its granites were worn by the 
frosts, the rains, and the waves many millions of years before the Rockies and 
the Sierras emerged from the prehistoric sea. Its deciduous forests rank with 
the finest of the Appalachian region. 

It is the only spot on our Atlantic coast where mountain and seashore in- 
timately mingle; the rocky coast of New England is nowhere nobler than here. 
From the viewpoints of its crags and slopes ocean and lake combine. 

The historical associations of Lafayette are among the oldest of America, 

Champlain having landed there in 1604. 

(=45) 




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Photograph by George R. King 



Mountain, Lake, and Fiord 




Photograph by George R. King 



When the Tide is Out. The Organ 

(-M7) 




Photograph by George R. King 



The Heart of Lafayette National Park — Jordan Pond, 

(248) 




)rdan Mountain and Pemetic Mountain o-n the Sky Line 

(249) 




Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts 

It is One of the Noblest Forests of Redwood Saved From the Axe 



(25°) 




Photograph by H. C. Tibbitts 



A Glimpse of the Beautiful Muir Woods 



IN THE FOREST PRIMEVAL 




ITHIN ten miles of the city of San Francisco, in Marin County, 

California, lies one of the noblest forests of primeval Redwood in 

America. That it stands to-day is due first to the fact that its outlet 

to the sea instead of to San Francisco Bay made it unprofitable to 

lumber in the days when redwoods grew like grain on California's hills. 

The Muir Woods National Monument contains three hundred acres. In- 
terspersed with the superb Redwood, the Sequoia sempervirens, sister to the 
Giant Sequoia of the Sierra, are many fine specimens of Douglas fir, Madrona, 
California Bay, and Mountain Oak. The forest blends into the surrounding 
wooded country. It is essentially typical of the redwood growth, with a rich 
stream-watered bottom carpeted with ferns, violets, oxalis, and azalea. 

Many of the redwoods are magnificent specimens and some have extraor- 
dinary size. Cathedral Grove, and Bohemian Grove, where the famous revels 
of the Bohemian club were held before the club purchased its own permanent 
grove, are unexcelled in luxuriant beauty. 

This splendid area of forest primeval was named by its donors, Mr. and 
Mrs. William Kent, in honor of the celebrated naturalist of the Sierra, John 
Muir. It is so near San Francisco that thousands are able to enjoy its cathedral 
aisles of noble trees. 

(251) 




(252) 



KATMAI'S STEAMING VENTS 




Copyright the National Geographic Society 

The Katmai Crater (upper) Compared with Kilauea Crater (lower) 




NE of the greatest explosive volcanic eruptions of recent times 
blew several cubic miles of material out of Mount Katmai, on the 
southern shore of Alaska, in June, 191 2. It left a great gulf where 
once the summit reared, and in its bottom a crater lake of unknown 
depth. A few miles away, across the divide, lies a group of valleys from which 
burst many thousands of vents of superheated vapors. The greatest of these 
has been named the "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes." 

This remarkable volcanic region, to explore which the National Geographic 
Society has sent five expeditions, has no parallel elsewhere to-day. It is a ver- 
itable land of wonders. In the valley the ground in many places is too hot for 
walking. In others one may camp comfortably in the coldest nights in a warm 
tent and cook one's breakfast on a steaming crack outside. The volume is 
beyond belief. A few feet below the surface, the temperature of the vents is 
often excessively high. Once the Yellowstone geyser basins probably resembled 
the "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes," and a few hundred thousand years 
from now this valley may become a geyser basin greater than Yellowstone's. 

The explosion which wrecked Mount Katmai was heard at Juneau, seven 
hundred and fifty miles away. Its dust fell at Ketchikan, nine hundred miles 
away. Its fumes were smelled at Vancouver Island, fifteen hundred miles away. 

(253) 




(^54) 




Copyright the National Geographic Society 

Down the Steaming Surface of Falling Mountain Roll Masses of Rocks of all Sizes 




Copyright the National Geographic Society 

Following the Great Eruption, a Vast Quantity of Pasty Lava Issued From the Vent 

(255) 



Montezuma Castle 

MONTEZUMA CASTLE NATIONAL MONUMENT 

•""PHIS remarkable relic of a prehistoric race is the principal feature of a 
*■ well-preserved group of cliff dwellings in the northeastern part of Yavapai 
County, Arizona, known as the Montezuma Castle National Monument. The 
unique position and size of the ruin gives it the appearance of an ancient 
castle; hence its name. 

The structure is about fifty feet in height by sixty feet in width, built in the 
form of a crescent, with the convex part against the cliff. It is five stories high, 
the fifth story being back under the cliff and protected by a masonry wall four 
feet high, so that it is not visible from the outside. The walls of the structure 
are of masonry and adobe, plastered over on the inside and outside with mud. 

DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT 

HPHIS extraordinary mass of igneous rock is one of the most conspicuous 
*■ features in the Black Hills region of Wyoming. 

The tower is a steep-sided shaft rising six hundred feet above a rounded 
ridge of sedimentary rocks, about six hundred feet high, on the west bank of 
the Belle Fourche River. Its nearly flat top is elliptical in outline. Its sides 
are strongly fluted by the great columns of igneous rock, and are nearly per- 
pendicular, except near the top, where there is some rounding; and near the 
bottom, where there is considerable outward flare. The tower has been scaled 
in the past by means of special apparatus, but only at considerable risk. 

The great columns of which the tower consists are mostly pentagonal in 
shape, but some are four or six sided. 




65163 — 21 17 



The Devils Tower, Wyoming 
(257) 




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(253) 




THE CHACO CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT 

r T"'HE Chaco Canyon National Monument preserves remarkable relics of a pre- 
*- historic people once inhabiting New Mexico. Here are. found numerous 
communal or pueblo dwellings built of stone, among which is the ruin known as 
Pueblo Bonito, containing, as it originally stood, twelve hundred rooms. It is 
the largest prehistoric ruin in the Southwest. 

So difficult are they of access that little excavation has been done. 

SHOSHONE CAVERN NATIONAL MONUMENT 
A FEW miles east of the celebrated Shoshone Dam, in Wyoming, is found 
**• the entrance to the picturesque cave to preserve which the Shoshone 
Cavern National Monument w r as created. 

Some of the rooms are. a hundred and fifty feet long and forty or fifty feet 
high, and all are remarkably encrusted with limestone crystals. 

The passages through the cavern are most intricate, twisting, turning, 
doubling back, and descending so abruptly that ladders are often necessary. 

COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT 
r T"'HIS area, near Grand Junction, Colorado, is similar to that of the Garden 
*■ of the Gods at Colorado Springs, only much more beautiful and picturesque. 
With possibly two exceptions it exhibits probably as highly colored, magnifi- 
cent, and impressive examples of erosion, particularly of lofty monoliths, as may 
be found anywhere in the West. 

These monoliths are located in several tributary canyons. Some of them are 
of gigantic size ; one over four hundred feet high is almost circular and a hundred 
feet in diameter at base. Some have not yet been explored. 

- (2S9) 



LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERN NATIONAL MONUMENT 

THE feature of this national monument is a limestone cavern of great 
scientific interest because of its length and because of the number of 
large vaulted chambers it contains. It is of historic interest, also, because it 
overlooks for more than fifty miles the Montana trail of Lewis and Clark. 

The vaults of the cavern are magnificently decorated with stalactite and 
stalagmite formations of great variety of size, form, and color, the equal of, if 
not rivaling, the similar formations in the well-known Luray caves in Virginia. 
The cavern has been closed on account of depredations of vandals. 

THE DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT 

THE Dinosaur National Monument in Northeastern Utah was created to 
preserve remarkable fossil deposits of extinct reptiles of great size. The 
reservation contains eighty acres of Juratrias rock. 

For years prospectors and residents had been finding large bones in the 
neighborhood, and in 1909 Prof. Earl B. Douglass of the Carnegie Museum of 
Pittsburgh, under a permit from the Department of the Interior, undertook 
a scientific investigation. The results exceeded all expectation. Remains of 
many enormous animals which once inhabited what is now our Southwestern 
States have been unearthed in a state of fine preservation. These include 
complete and perfect skeletons of large dinosaurs 

The chief find was the perfect skeleton of a brontosaurus eighty-five feet 
long and sixteen feet high which may have weighed, when living, twenty tons 




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Unearthing the Skeleton of a Giant Dinosaur of Prehistoric 

(260) 



Days 




RAINBOW BRIDGE NATIONAL MONUMENT 

THIS natural bridge is located within the Navajo Indian Reservation, near 
the southern boundary of Utah, and spans a canyon and small stream 
which drains the northwestern slopes of Navajo Mountain. It is of great 
scientific interest as an example of eccentric stream erosion. 

Among the known extraordinary natural bridges of the world, this bridge 
is unique in that it is not only a symmetrical arch below but presents also a 
curved surface above, thus suggesting roughly a rainbow. Its height above 
the surface of the water is three hundred and nine feet and its span is two hun- 
dred and seventy-eight feet. 

The bridge and the neighboring canyon walls are gorgeously clothed in 
mottled red and yellow. It was first seen by white men in August, 1909, when 
Professor Byron Cummings, John Wetherill, and William B. Douglass visited 
it under the guidance of an Indian boy. 

( 2 6i) 



THE CASA GRANDE NATIONAL MONUMENT 

ONE of the best preserved and most interesting ruins in the southwest has 
been preserved in this reservation, which is near Florence, Arizona. The 
structure was once at least four stories high. Many mounds in the neighbor- 
hood indicate that it was once one of a large group of dwellings of some 
importance. The ruin was discovered by the intrepid Jesuit missionary, Father 
Eusebio Francisco Kino, at the end of the seventeenth century. 

THE PAPAGO SAGUARO NATIONAL MONUMENT 

WITHIN this national monument, which lies about nine miles east of 
Phoenix, Ariz., and less than a dozen miles from the Apache Trail, 
grow splendid examples of characteristic desert flora, including many strik- 
ing specimens of giant cactus (saguaro) and many other interesting species 
of cacti, such as the prickly pear and cholla. 

EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT 

EL MORRO, or Inscription Rock, in western central New Mexico, is an 
enormous sandstone rock rising a couple of hundred feet out of the plain 
and eroded in such fantastic form as to give it the appearance of a castle. 

The earliest inscription is dated February 18, 1526. Historically the most 
important inscription is that of Juan de Onate, a colonizer of New Mexico and 
the founder of the city of Santa Fe, in 1606. It was in this year that Onate 
visited El Morro and carved this inscription on his return from a trip to the 
head of the Gulf of California. There are nineteen other Spanish inscriptions. 

CAPULIN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL MONUMENT 

'APULIN MOUNTAIN is a volcanic cinder cone of recent origin, 6 miles 
southwest of Folsom, N. Mex. It is the most magnificent specimen of a 
considerable group of craters. Capulin has an altitude of 8,000 feet, rising 
1,500 feet above the surrounding plain. It is almost a perfect cone. 

VERENDRYE NATIONAL MONUMENT 

FROM the left bank of the Missouri River, at Old Crossing, N. Dak., rises an 
impressive eminence from which the great plains west of the Rockies 
doubtless were first seen by civilized man. Crow- high Butte is the second 
highest elevation in the State. It is conserved by presidential proclamation 
under the title of Verendrye National Monument. 

Verendrye, the celebrated French explorer, started from the north shore 
of Lake Superior 60 years before the Lewis and Clark expedition, passed west- 
ward and southwestward into the unknown regions of the plains and the 
mountains, and, about 1740, stood upon the summit of this striking butte. 

(262) 










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The Needles, Pinnacles National Monument 

PINNACLES NATIONAL MONUMENT 

HE spires, domes, caves, and subterranean passages of the Pinnacles 

National Monument in San Benito County, California, are well 

worth a visit. The name is derived from the spirelike formations 

arising from six hundred to a thousand feet from the floor of the 

canyon, forming a landmark visible many miles in every direction. 

A series of caves, opening one into the other, lie under each of the groups 
of rock. These vary greatly in size, one in particular, known as the Banquet 
Hall, being about a hundred feet square, with a ceiling thirty feet high. 





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THE TUMACACORI NATIONAL MONUMENT 

THE Tumacacori National Monument in Santa Cruz County, Arizona, was 
created to preserve a very ancient Spanish mission ruin dating, it is thought, 
from the latter part of the sixteenth century. It was built by Jesuit priests 
from Spain and operated by them for over a century. 

After the year 1769 priests belonging to the order of Franciscan Fathers 
took charge of the mission and repaired its crumbling walls, maintaining peace- 
able possession for about sixty years, until driven out by Apache Indians. 

GRAN QUIVIRA NATIONAL MONUMENT 

THE Gran Ouivira has long been recognized as one of the most important 
of the earliest Spanish church or mission ruins in the Southwest. It is in 
Central New Mexico. Near by are numerous Indian pueblo ruins, occupying an 
area many acres in extent, which also, with sufficient land to protect them, was 
reserved. The outside dimensions of the church ruin, which is in the form of 
a short-arm cross, are about forty-eight by one hundred and forty feet, and 
its walls are from four to six feet thick and from twelve to twenty feet high. 

NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT 

THIS tract encloses three interesting and extensive prehistoric pueblos or 
cliff-dwelling ruins in an excellent state of preservation. These are known 
as the Betatakin, the Keet Seel, and Inscription House. 

Inscription House Ruin, on Navajo Creek, is regarded as extraordinary, 
not only because of its good state of preservation, but because of the fact that 
upon the walls of its rooms are found inscriptions written in Spanish by early 
explorers and plainly dated 1661. 

(264) 




THE PETRIFIED FOREST OF ARIZONA 

HPHE Petrified Forest National Monument lies in the area between the Little 
Colorado River and the Rio Puerco, fifteen miles east of their junction. 
This area is of interest because of the abundance of petrified coniferous trees. 
It has exceptional scenic features, also. 

The trees lie scattered about in great profusion; none, however, stands 
erect in its original place of growth, as in the Yellowstone National Park. 

The trees probably at one time grew beside an inland sea; after falling 
thev became water-logged, and during decomposition the cell structure of the 
wood was entirely replaced by silica from sandstone in the surrounding land. 



SITKA NATIONAL MONUMENT, ALASKA 

'""T'HIS monument reservation is situated about a mile from the steamboat 
-■■ landing at Sitka, Alaska. Upon this ground was located formerly the 
village of a warlike tribe — the Kik-Siti Indians — where the Russians under 
Baranoff in 1802 fought and won the "decisive battle of Alaska" against the 
Indians and effected the lodgment that offset the then active attempts of Great 
Britain to possess this part of the country. The Russian title thus acquired 
to the Alexander Archipelago was later transferred to the United States. 

A celebrated "witch tree" of the natives and sixteen totem poles, several 
of which are examples of the best work of the savage genealogists of the Alaska 
clans, stand sentrylike along the beach. 

(265) 



HOW TO REACH THE NATIONAL PARKS 




The map shows the location of all of our National Parks and National Monuments and their principal railroad connections. 
The traveler may work out his routes to suit himself. Round-trip excursion fares to the American Rocky Mountain region 
and Pacific Coast may be availed of in visiting the National Parks during their respective seasons, thus materially reducing 
the cost of the trip. Transcontinental through trains and branch lines make the parks easy of access from all parts of the 
United States. For schedules and excursion fares to and between the National Parks apply to your local railway ticket office 
or to any tourist agency. 

For informatian about sojourning and traveling within the National Parks write to the Director of the National Park 
Service, Washington, D. C, for the information circular of the park or parks in which you are interested. 



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(206) 



wAsh4JH£on : government printing office : 1921 






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